readingtype
Western Thunderer
Excellent, thanks - an entirely different approach. N/S rod goes on the shopping list for Abrail tomorrow morning!
Ben
readingtype’s workbench
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Ben
readingtype
Western Thunderer
Well, yes, I see your various points ... Thing is - we had to have quint sets for the Orchard Wharf project. You just can't do GE suburban without them. And I remain grateful that these kits appeared within a year of our group sticking its collective neck out! My intention is these give the right impression when viewed from 2' 6" which is as close to the front of the layout as they can get without derailment.
Ben
readingtype
Western Thunderer
I wasn't! Didn't see any such thing as n/s rod on sale (and didn't get to see everything there was). An enjoyable event nonetheless.
Tim Watson
Western Thunderer
Try this, Ben.
www.scalemodelshop.co.uk
Tim
Scale Modelling Nickel Silver Rod Albion Alloys - Scale Model Shop
Nickel Silver Rod by Albion Alloys, great for scale models, available from Scale Model Shop UK, Fast UK Delivery, 5* Customer service, Live Stock Levels
www.scalemodelshop.co.uk
Tim
adrian
Flying Squad
Also often recommended - for different sizes / lengths of n/s wire
and
www.cambrianmodelrail.co.uk
Metal Materials, Cutting tools Sundries Model Makers Engineering Tools
Tools & materials for the hobbyist. Nickel-silver, brass, plastics, tufnol. Wire, rod, bar, sheet, metal materials, cutting tools, sundries
www.metalsmith.co.uk
and
Nickel Silver Wire
Straight Nickel Silver wire mainly in 250cm lengths in various diameters.
www.cambrianmodelrail.co.uk
readingtype
Western Thunderer
I didn't allow myself a chance to get n/s rod. Thank you for the suggested sources, those will not be wasted! I decided this time to keep moving, using brass that I already had. There followed much folding and tinning of L shaped hangers. Much of this afternoon was along these lines:
A better informed approach to the project overall would have marked everything out, and drilled and cut, before putting things together. I have to confess that at that stage, although I was looking at drawings, I was, so to speak, hung up sufficiently on the underframe trussing that I looked straight through the running boards. Later, of course, it became obvious I had my priorities inside out. The running boards will hide the missing trusses for as long as they're missing!
Five carriages later I am now out of K&S #815026 and one running board had to include a join.
A better informed approach to the project overall would have marked everything out, and drilled and cut, before putting things together. I have to confess that at that stage, although I was looking at drawings, I was, so to speak, hung up sufficiently on the underframe trussing that I looked straight through the running boards. Later, of course, it became obvious I had my priorities inside out. The running boards will hide the missing trusses for as long as they're missing!
Five carriages later I am now out of K&S #815026 and one running board had to include a join.
Phil O
Western Thunderer
Ben,
There was nothing for the modeller there, so you didn't miss anything. We were looking for bits to replace gremlin affected parts of our layout.
readingtype
Western Thunderer
The long term the fix for the incorrect footplate height on this Trix ex-KPEV T3 is a new set of frames. As this thread shows, that would challenge my current skills. Meantime, the 'OBK' coupling hook needs adapting as it's fitted to the buffer beam and the artificially raised footplate makes it too high to couple to anything else.
Step one is to try lengthening the striker/hook that it doesn't run over the top of the loop on the opposing coupling but lifts it, as intended.
A comparison with jig shows the height difference
My first attempt has failed. Adding 0.7mm brass rod does catch the loop, but the striker obstructs the hook on the opposite coupling so the loop cannot be caught by the hook. Hope that's clear? More later...
Step one is to try lengthening the striker/hook that it doesn't run over the top of the loop on the opposing coupling but lifts it, as intended.
A comparison with jig shows the height difference
My first attempt has failed. Adding 0.7mm brass rod does catch the loop, but the striker obstructs the hook on the opposite coupling so the loop cannot be caught by the hook. Hope that's clear? More later...