7mm Mickoo's Commercial Workbench

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Hi Mick,

great work as usual, would a permanent marker do for the rims?

cheers

Mike
Thank you.

Well yes and no, the ones I have here (sharpies) leave a slight purple sheen so they stand out as much as the little flecks of bright metal and infuriatingly they can rub off too, it's almost like they have teflon impregnated in them.

They're great for running as the treads don't seem to get dirty as easily.
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
I've no idea what the rims are made off but they won't blacken and are a devil to get paint to stick...
The appearance of the wheels suggest that they were produced for MOK... the consensus of those who have locos fitted with MOK wheels - that is S7 group peeps that you and I know - is that the rims are stainless steel and do not blacken easily.

Rgds, Graham
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
The appearance of the wheels suggest that they were produced for MOK... the consensus of those who have locos fitted with MOK wheels - that is S7 group peeps that you and I know - is that the rims are stainless steel and do not blacken easily.

Rgds, Graham
That would make sense.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Are you using stainless blackener or normal blackener?
Normal as I've been led to believe stainless blackener is akin to snake oil, the only effective way being to heat the material and drop in oil.

Obviously being rim insulated that's not going to be a viable option.
My MOK 9F wheels were treated with a brown and black covering from some Sharpies. Enough to take the laser shine away.
I tried Sharpies and it basically just rubbed off as well.
 

simond

Western Thunderer
Mick,

this seems to be a potential solution (sorry, bad pun) but I’m always a bit skeptical when there’s no obviously available MSDS.


not cheap, either. Then again, a litre would do a few locos, I guess..l

This confirms your suggestion that hot (and acid) is necessary


as does Wikipedia which states

Hot black oxide for stainless steel is a mixture of caustic, oxidizing, and sulfur salts. It blackens 300 and 400 series and the precipitation-hardened 17-4 PH stainless steel alloys.

however, it goes on to note

Room-temperature blackening for stainless steel occurs by auto-catalytic reaction of copper-selenide depositing on the stainless-steel surface. It offers less abrasion resistance and the same corrosion protection as the hot blackening process.

it would appear that there are cold blacks for stainless available. How toxic they might be is a consideration.

best
Simon
 

Fitzroy

Western Thunderer
There are definitely cold blacks that work- It helps if you first activate the surface by wiping with hydrocloric acid on a cotton bud or similar.
This one is in Australia but the same US company supplying that one in Simon's link above.

Cheers

Piet
 
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mickoo

Western Thunderer
Yesterday I hand delivered this to the client; we were talking about build schedules for future work and he said this had been over a year, to me it was only yesterday as you get so immersed in the bench day in and day out, it can all become a bit of a blurr.

So for all of you who have waited or are waiting, thank you for your patience and merry Xmas to all.

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spikey faz

Western Thunderer
Yesterday I hand delivered this to the client; we were talking about build schedules for future work and he said this had been over a year, to me it was only yesterday as you get so immersed in the bench day in and day out, it can all become a bit of a blurr.

So for all of you who have waited or are waiting, thank you for your patience and merry Xmas to all.

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Nice!

Have a great Christmas Mickoo. :)

Mike

ps Have you ever built the MOK Bulleid Q1? I have one in the cupboard, but lacking a bit of incentive to build it.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Nice!

Have a great Christmas Mickoo. :)

Mike

ps Have you ever built the MOK Bulleid Q1? I have one in the cupboard, but lacking a bit of incentive to build it.
Thank you and hope you have a good one too.

I haven't built one myself but I have two here to work on, one to fit DCC to and another for remedial works, the smokebox door casting has some pitting so we're going to replace it with a 3D one. We're (myself/client - acting on his and others behalf) also going to look at working up a new 3D boiler base to go under the casing as there's quite a big hole up under there, possibly firebox throat plate and ash pan front and smokebox/cylinder block rear face as well.
 
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