The Heybridge Railway, 1889 to 1913

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Recent posts on the subject sent me off down a minor rabbit hole and it seems that in this instance Simon's solution isn't that far off the mark.

The retaining 'nuts' on the real thing do indeed look like a top hat bush. No flats and retained by a taper pin. Presumably the use of the taper pin precludes the need for any spanner flats. Just hand tighten and fit the pin?

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RichardG

Western Thunderer
Thanks Phil, I have added pinned-down brakes to the list.

We went to the East Anglian Railway Museum today. They have a new Exhibition Hall, opened last year. I took photos of exhibits and their dust and grime. If some modellers over-do weathering, then I am sure I over-think it.
 
GER horse box (1888)

RichardG

Western Thunderer
I have indulged myself in a little "cheque book modelling" in the form of a GER horsebox. This one has been built from a kit by D&S Models.

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The build includes a rocking axle, this is at the end with the groom's compartment.

I will confess, I have had a copy of this kit for well over two years and I could not get my head around the instructions. So now I have a worked example to copy.
 

RichardG

Western Thunderer
I have written the back story of the Heybridge Railway to allow even encourage loan locomotives. These would have visited the railway during the period before the arrival of no.4 'Heybridge', when locos nos. 2 and 3 were both worn out and failing.

I suspect a pannier would look fine on the layout if someone brought one along (I can even support DCC!) but, like having a second cat, I'd be
reluctant to own one :thumbs:
 

alastairq

Western Thunderer
but, like having a second cat, I'd be
reluctant to own one :thumbs:

With respect to cats, I don't think we have a choice in the matter...in my experience [3 Not-mi-cats in full time residence...Perhaps I am a decent member of staff??]
 

RichardG

Western Thunderer
With respect to cats, I don't think we have a choice in the matter...in my experience [3 Not-mi-cats in full time residence...Perhaps I am a decent member of staff??]

My cat belonged to my neighbours. When they moved in next door, their cat moved in with me. He used to return to them for food but he spent his time in my house and garden. A few years later they had a new baby and the cat sought asylum with me, refused to go back. Eventually they decided to give him to me because they were shelling out for pet insurance every month for no benefit; he would pop in once a fortnight or so to blag an extra meal and clear off again. Never spent any time with them.

And so, they phoned up the people who administer the microchip codes for cats and dogs to tell them about the change of ownership. Apparently the conversation went something like this:

We are giving our cat to our neighbour so we'd like you to know this for when they ask you to change the name and address details
Ah, that will be Timmy?
No, Timmy got run over
That's very sad. It must be Bella then?
No, Bella left.
So it must be Harry. You're not very good with cats are you?
Yes.

I'm sure cats choose their human companions, and as I have written somewhere before, most likely they have found you and me to be relatively easy to train.
 
NER class H2 . . painting

RichardG

Western Thunderer
View attachment 250396
There are so many detail posts on the progress of ‘Quintus’, here are two photos of the model as now built.

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Four months on, I have got the painting of the ex-NER H2 underway.

When I bought the kit I was in two minds whether to build it as an H2 or as some kind of freelance variant with an open cab. After the experience of ‘River Pant’ I settled on an H2, to represent a visiting locomotive. This would get a pro paint job in lined NER livery.

When the build got underway I realised the kit will not build any of the three NER prototypes. There were variations in sandboxes, steps, brakes and tanks, and the kit provides a permutation which doesn’t quite match up with any of them. So I decided it is best for me to imagine I am building a fictional fourth member of the class.

Such a loco clearly never ran on the NER, and this gives me a free hand with the livery. Logically it might be black to match up with ‘Blackwater’ and ‘Heybridge’, but I think an Oxford blue will suit the loco so this is what I have done.

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Body primed (U-Pol Acid #8), then masked for body colour.

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The sides didn't receive enough paint so I masked them again and topped them up.

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The cling film is my own idea though I expect other people are already using it.

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Masked to brush paint the running boards.

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The red inside the cab is my undercoat for the scrumbling used by the NER.

This operation has consumed ten consecutive days:
0 primer (20th February)
1 brush acrylic (Vallejo) inside cab and onto buffer beams
2 mask
3 spray blue enamel (Precision)
4 mask, spray more blue enamel (Precision)
5 wait
6 wait
7 mask, spray black acrylic (Tamiya)
8 wait (probably unnecessary)
9 mask, brush detail areas (Vallejo)

My use of enamel followed by acrylic came about because I already had the paint. I haven’t had any problems with the different chemistries reacting with each other, but I did take a few days off to let things cure.
 

RichardG

Western Thunderer
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I have added the cab interior to the H2 - all of these parts are from the kit. My efforts at painting look a bit rough but they will be less conspicuous after the roof goes on.

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The buffers are from Walsall Model Industries, and the screw coupling is from Premier Components. The cab roof has ended up as an interference fit so I can leave this off until I fit the crew.

If this was a conventional track-powered loco it would be all but finished. My next task is to squeeze in the radio control equipment and its batteries.
 

RichardG

Western Thunderer
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The model has a supporting frame for the cab roof, to allow the roof to be lifted off the finished model.

Having painted the inside of the cab I found myself wanting to look inside it with the roof in place. The supporting frame for the roof was quite intrusive, so I have trimmed away its two narrower flanges. Those abrasive cut-off discs you put in a mini-drill really are invaluable!

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I can finish the inner sides to blend in with my scrumbling on the cab sides.

The four shallow rebates (like the one beside the screwdriver) are necessary to let the roof fit over the window frames.

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I forgot to take any photos of the roof assembly. For my period, the roof was a wooden one, so I added the flanges around the sides. The whistle is the white metal one from the kit, with its brass paint burnished to bring it to life.
 
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( Diversion : painting parts to look like brass )

RichardG

Western Thunderer
The subject of painting parts to make them look like polished brass came up in a private conversation and I think a photo is worth sharing here.

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This is a painted white metal casting and two offcuts of brass tube. One offcut dull, the other polished.

The paint is AK Xtreme Metal "brass", brushed on over Tamiya fine surface primer, left to harden and then burnished with a cotton bud. A mate has tried a buffing wheel on a similar casting before starting. I could try this next time.

For comparison, the brass colour on the insides of the cab windows is Vallejo 70.996 "gold". This looks okay on small areas.

I think I have a fair representation of dull brass, but polished brass is still evading me. Clearly I could buy a posh component made out of real brass, but if you aren't careful a set of such parts costs as much again as the kit.

Finishing off the H2 is going so slowly the thing is gathering dust :rolleyes:
 

Osgood

Western Thunderer
I think I have a fair representation of dull brass, but polished brass is still evading me. Clearly I could buy a posh component made out of real brass, but if you aren't careful a set of such parts costs as much again as the kit.
Fair? More like excellent.

As for polished - Gloss / satin varnish?


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magmouse

Western Thunderer
Fair? More like excellent.

As for polished - Gloss / satin varnish?


View attachment 259531

The problem with a varnish finish is that the highlights (where the surface reflects an image of the light source lighting it) will look wrong. With most gloss surfaces, the highlight is the colour of the light source, but with shiny metallic surfaces, the highlight is the colour of the metal - yellowy-gold in the case of brass. This property is central to our sense of 'metallic' colours.

Nick.
 

Osgood

Western Thunderer
Interesting, Nick.
So might a coloured / tinted varnish do the trick - perhaps one of the tinted gloss wood stains?
I can see the test pieces piling up......
 

simond

Western Thunderer
The problem with a varnish finish is that the highlights (where the surface reflects an image of the light source lighting it) will look wrong. With most gloss surfaces, the highlight is the colour of the light source, but with shiny metallic surfaces, the highlight is the colour of the metal - yellowy-gold in the case of brass. This property is central to our sense of 'metallic' colours.

Nick.
Thank you for that insight!
 

RichardG

Western Thunderer
. . . but with shiny metallic surfaces, the highlight is the colour of the metal - yellowy-gold in the case of brass.

I swept all of the brass filings off the bench into the bin, and then had an idea. Could I mix extra brass filings into the AK Xtreme, and expect to get a more brass-like finish? Or maybe, the only truly brass-like finish is by a plating process?
 
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