7mm Scale 7 MOK 9F in Spain

[Eastsidepilot]

They only work that way round as the compensation beams need something to bear down on.

Colin,
I understand your answer in regard to 0-FS, would you do the same for S7?
regards, Graham

Depends how the kit is designed, with this 9F kit if it has full width chassis, i.e. prototype dim's, then I don't see issues with S7 but if the kits frame's width are reduced for narrow gauge then it would be a case of either axle spacers or you go down the route of semi scratch to make it correct for S7.

 

[SimonT]

Don't touch the spacers. The chassis is correct for S7, the added benefit is that it is also correct for the narrow gauge )). All you need to do is talk to Dave and request the S7 add ons. A couple of small etches and castings as I remember.

This might help:

New Releases

www.modernoutline.co.uk

"I know, 'cos I was there" as they say around here!
Simon

 

[Eastsidepilot]

Don't touch the spacers. The chassis is correct for S7, the added benefit is that it is also correct for the narrow gauge ). All you need to do is talk to Dave and request the S7 add ons. A couple of small etches and castings as I remember.

This might help:

New Releases

www.modernoutline.co.uk

"I know, 'cos I was there" as they say around here!
Simon

I had assumed that was the case Simon, BR standards did have narrower frames than was the previous norm.
Col.

 

[Dave Holt]

The wide firebox Standards (Brits, Clans, DoG and 9Fs) had the frames spaced to be over the centre of the axleboxes - as on the Bulleid pacifics. The BR frame spacing was 3'-21/4" with 11/4" thick frame plates. Most narrow firebox locos had frames at about 4'-11/2" spacing.
Dave.

 

[Len Cattley]

Now to the 1st frame sub assembly. It includes the Ash pan lever, if I wanted to make the fireman clean the Ash pan!!!


Len

 

[Len Cattley]

Next is this frame sub assembly (for Rear Axle gearbox retention). But I don't see it would be any use for me. As I am using this motor and gearbox.


Len

 

[Len Cattley]

On to the forward balance beam suspension, I have a problem with brake cylinders as it will not fit in this position but it says in the instructions you don't have to fit it, but stops the lever from swinging in mid air.

I could just attach the plunger. What does the viewer's think?

Len

 

[chigley]

can't you just file flat on the balance bar or omit the cyl as it is not visible Les

Ken

 

[Len Cattley]

Hi Ken, what I can do is omit the cylinder and mate the bar to the bracket.

Len

 

[chigley]

Im still on the tender, but just lined the V2 first time ever!

Ken

 

[Dave Holt]

Len.
It looks to me like you've already fitted it, so where is the problem? The cross shaft presumably lies horizontal in normal conditions and only needs to be able to rock a millimetre or so either way. If the shaft and dummy brake cylinder are actually rubbing, why not just file or grind a bit off to allow the limited free movement?
Dave.

 

[Len Cattley]

Hi Dave, the brake-shaft is just resting on the part I haven't fitted it yet, I suppose it could solder it to part.

Len

 

[OzzyO]

Hello Len,

as the instructions say that you can not see the brake cylinder from normal viewing angles don't beat your head up over it.

But if you do want to include it you will have to modify one or both parts for them both to fit, the rocking beam only needs to move 0.5mm max. up and down unless your track is in very bad condition.

When I was building 4-6-0 locos I would only give them about 10-15 thou upwards travel on the middle axle, if the track needed more that that for the locos to stay on the track the track was at fault.

ATB

OzzyO.

PS don't expect the 9F to do what the 08 did on the front cover of MRJ a good number of years ago.

 

[Len Cattley]

Paul & Dave, I think I will solder the top part of the brake cylinder to the cast brake lever as I was thinking about it I need to dismantle it, but the parts are bolted to part 144 so if I wanted to take them apart I can. Thanks.

Len

 

[Len Cattley]

Here it is, in is final glory.

Len

 

[Dave Holt]

Looks good, Len.
As OzzyO has said, you should only need +/- 0.5 mm or so of rock but you look to have about 10 degrees either side. If the track is so bad as to need that, you'll probably suffer derailments anyway and when the loco is lying on its side, you'll actually be able to see the brake cylinder, thus making it worth while fitting.
Dave.

 

[Len Cattley]

Well, I have finished the chassis

Now to add the chassis overlay detail.

 

[Dave Holt]

An impressive spurt of progress there, Len. Very nice to see.
In the time it's taken you to fully assemble the chassis, I've managed to fit the two relief valves to my Ivatt firebox!
Dave.

 

[Len Cattley]

Still very good Dave, your loco isn't an MOK kit though is it?
Len

 

[Len Cattley]

Come across a major problem, have found that the frames are bent at the end, I might have to un-solder them. B***ger.

Len

Len