mickoo
Western Thunderer
Yes it will but it's still nice/satisfying to have a clean metal model before paint.
7mm Mickoo's Commercial Workbench
- Thread starter mickoo
- Start date
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Not for me I'm afraid, build, strip and out the door for paint.
I've only coveted three of the fifty or so builds in the last five years, the Jubilee, Scot and Crab.
Don't get me wrong, they're all very nice and some grow on you at the end, but other than those three, the rest I've never had the slightest twinge when handed over to the client.
simond
Western Thunderer
Which may be one of the reasons why I’m not a commercial builder.
The others may include a lack of skill and/or talent, too much impatience, and an innate inability to stick to one thing at a time.
Wow, what a casting! I find smokebox doors the most difficult to cast well.
Dave
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Finally done on the 94xx, it took longer than planned and envisaged so the backlog grows again.
I've used a new cleaner, metal work is gloriously clean but the merest hint of solder or stain turns dark grey....uggh.
One thing to watch for is the resin block, it's heavy, surprisingly heavy for resin, well I found out why the other day after washing it, it's been impregnated with steel. The outer surface is fine and smooth but when you drill it or file it and break the surface it will start to rust after washing. It's not a great issue as the main material is resin so it's only small specks but will need a wipe before paint to remove any oxidization first.
I also royally lost it with the buffers, the white metal ones were slightly shrunken so need to be bored out for the buffer stock, on top of that the spigot on the back needing turning to fit the buffer beam holes.....FAIL
Next I tried some older brass ones we had from the same pattern, one snagged in the chucked and self destructed and looking at the other three with their pitiful casting flash, nodules inside the bore and warped bases I threw them away in disgust.....FAIL.
I also had some pure 3D ones in the box which fitted just fine but I (personal choice) was reticent to have resin taking all the mechanical forces and movements. In the end I turned up adaptor spigots to fit the buffer beam and thin walled tube for the shank, fitted the tube and then slid over a cosmetic 3D print.
I've also lost a couple of rivets on the resin bunker base, mine was deformed at the bottom front edge and bulged outward so trimming back they were sadly lost.
I've fitted inside motion (Finney7 GWR 2251 set) and there were no dramas there and it all fits, the inside cranks just need securing and the axle shaft cutting out, that'll get done on strip down.
As is my normal practice, the backhead gets done whilst the body is away for paint and fitted on return, then the floor goes in to seal the cab up.
I've used a new cleaner, metal work is gloriously clean but the merest hint of solder or stain turns dark grey....uggh.
One thing to watch for is the resin block, it's heavy, surprisingly heavy for resin, well I found out why the other day after washing it, it's been impregnated with steel. The outer surface is fine and smooth but when you drill it or file it and break the surface it will start to rust after washing. It's not a great issue as the main material is resin so it's only small specks but will need a wipe before paint to remove any oxidization first.
I also royally lost it with the buffers, the white metal ones were slightly shrunken so need to be bored out for the buffer stock, on top of that the spigot on the back needing turning to fit the buffer beam holes.....FAIL
Next I tried some older brass ones we had from the same pattern, one snagged in the chucked and self destructed and looking at the other three with their pitiful casting flash, nodules inside the bore and warped bases I threw them away in disgust.....FAIL.
I also had some pure 3D ones in the box which fitted just fine but I (personal choice) was reticent to have resin taking all the mechanical forces and movements. In the end I turned up adaptor spigots to fit the buffer beam and thin walled tube for the shank, fitted the tube and then slid over a cosmetic 3D print.
I've also lost a couple of rivets on the resin bunker base, mine was deformed at the bottom front edge and bulged outward so trimming back they were sadly lost.
I've fitted inside motion (Finney7 GWR 2251 set) and there were no dramas there and it all fits, the inside cranks just need securing and the axle shaft cutting out, that'll get done on strip down.
As is my normal practice, the backhead gets done whilst the body is away for paint and fitted on return, then the floor goes in to seal the cab up.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Well if you threw the resin lump at someone you'd probably be charged with ABH.....
david duxbury
Active Member
What a beautiful looking little loco, excellent Mick!
simond
Western Thunderer
Having handled the “lump” at Kempton, I’d strenuously avoid dropping it on my foot too…
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Not really, but I'll add a ½kg anyway to be on the safe side, that'll bring it up to 1.2Kg which should cope with most trains.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Middle of the week to finish, hmmph, fat chance 
Still it's closer now than it was five days ago, still to do topsides is the reach rod once the valve gear is set so I can line it up with the reversing lever crank and lamp irons. Lubricators will get fitted after paint and then a good old clean up and gap filling exercise where required.
Below is valve gear and sand pipes to finish off.
Still it's closer now than it was five days ago, still to do topsides is the reach rod once the valve gear is set so I can line it up with the reversing lever crank and lamp irons. Lubricators will get fitted after paint and then a good old clean up and gap filling exercise where required.
Below is valve gear and sand pipes to finish off.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
We all have our strong points, your's is (fair to say) structures and scenery
I neither have the skill set or more aptly, the interest; certainly regarding structures, which is why my HO layout is all trees, rocks and water
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
We all have our strong points, your's is (fair to say) structures and scenery
I neither have the skill set or more aptly, the interest; certainly regarding structures, which is why my HO layout is all trees, rocks and water
Would be very boring if we were all the same Mick!
Graham Bustin
Western Thunderer
Please confirm the manufacturer of the wheels that you have used.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Haven't got a clue, they were in the box.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
The client asked for some final RTP (Ready To Play) studio shots before wrapping up for delivery, it seemed rude not to share 
For the life of me the tender buffers will not blacken, wash, scrub, rough up just sit there gleaming at me, no idea what material it is so might swap them out for some I can blacken before hand over.
For the life of me the tender buffers will not blacken, wash, scrub, rough up just sit there gleaming at me, no idea what material it is so might swap them out for some I can blacken before hand over.