7mm Dan's S7 Workbench - Hawksworth Full Brake

[Steph Dale]

My dad has used them with good results and I've used the louvres on some American stuff. They work well but you need to remember they're decals. So apply to a gloss surface and don't forget the Microsol/Microset. Under those conditions the film almost completely vanishes.

You can then undercoat, topcoat and varnish; by which time I suspect you'll never know they're transfers.

Steph

 

[daifly]

This is the link

 

[lancer1027]

Just watched the clip and found it very useful. I might give these Archer rivets a go

 

[Dan Randall]

12th September 2014

It was nice and sunny today, so I wandered into the garden and managed to waft a little etch primer (U-POL ACID # 8), over the Hawksworth body….





There are a few bits of crud embedded in the primer, especially on the sides, but as everything will be prepped again before the topcoat goes on, I’m not that worried about it.

The main reason for the primer was to get the ball rolling on the reinstatement of the roof detail. The primer has highlighted a few scratches in the resin roof that were a result of taking all the previous rivet/panel detail off with some fairly coarse sandpaper, but these will provide a very good key for the topcoat. This will probably be brush painted enamel as it’ll go on thicker than sprayed paint and ensure all the scratches get filled.

At Telford last weekend, I managed to obtain a pair of the newly released heavy duty bogies that the Hawksworth should be riding on….





I won’t start these until the rest of the coach is finished (which is why I haven't unpacked them yet) and will probably finish the incorrect bogies it’s currently sitting on first. That way, I’ll have a pair of ready made bogies for when I get around to building a passenger Hawksworth!


That’s all for now – more updates as and when.


Regards

Dan

 

[lancer1027]

Great work Dan. Look forward to seeing some blue on it.................and then RIFLEMAN

Rob

 

[Mike Sheardown]

That's an excellent finish on the roof and body Dan!!

Looks great!!!

Cheers

Mike

 

[Dan Randall]

Thanks guys - glad you like it.


Regards

Dan

 

[Dan Randall]

12th September 2014 - further progress.

I thought I might as well slap some paint on the roof this evening....







I'll give it a good 48hrs to dry, then rub it down with some fine wet or dry paper, used wet. If it's good enough after that, I can think about reinstating the raised panels and rivet detail. I must admit, I'm looking forward to seeing some colour go on the sides and ends, but that's still a little way off yet.


Regards

Dan

 

[Ressaldar]

Hi Dan,

will watch the Orion bogie build with interest as I have the bogies for their Q13 to do - hopefully in the not too distant.

cheers

Mike

 

[oldravendale]

My dad has used them with good results and I've used the louvres on some American stuff. They work well but you need to remember they're decals. So apply to a gloss surface and don't forget the Microsol/Microset. Under those conditions the film almost completely vanishes.

You can then undercoat, topcoat and varnish; by which time I suspect you'll never know they're transfers.

Steph

Here's a few pics of the rivets in use. They've worked very well for me.

Brian

 

[Dan Randall]

12th January 2015


Over the past few weeks, I’ve managed to do a few bits to the Hawksworth here and there, so I figured it was time for a progress report. The study of various photos seems to indicate that there are overlaps in the sheet metal sides at waist and gutter levels, which seems perfectly reasonable to me. I wanted to represent this effect somehow, as the kit’s etched sides are totally flat, though that’s not a criticism of the kit itself, just what one would expect to find in an etched coach side.

I decided some overlays were in order, but they had to be thin enough to look like sheets of metal, so I hit upon the idea of self-adhesive paper A4 labels from a stationery shop. The tricky bit was ensuring the door outlines were represented and in the right place, so I contacted Chris Hillier of Hurn Models (the kit designer) and explained what I was trying to do. He very kindly supplied me with a printout of the coach sides, along with the dimensions of door and window sizes and positions from a known reference point. I was then able to incorporate this data into a TurboCAD drawing….




Once I was happy with the paper printouts, I put a sheet of the self-adhesive label in the printer. The idea was to cut along the waist level line and stick the bottom part of the label on first using the bottom of the side as a reference point….




Then, the top part of the label could be added, by butting it up against the lower label and ensuring the verticals lined up….



The bottom strips could then be removed….





This didn’t work as well as intended, because if I didn’t get the bottom labels in just the right place, it might throw the top ones out, where an unwanted gap could (and would), appear above the door gap itself. I peeled off what I’d started, gave up on the lower labels and started applying the top labels using the side/roof demarkation line and this worked out much better.

(As the labels were applied, it was relatively easy to run around each droplight or window opening with a sharp scalpel blade to remove the unwanted parts of the labels).


With this side completed, it was time to apply some varnish over the labels to protect them from handling damage….



The line of printed rivets along the top of the sides represents the position of another label overlay, to which Archer 3D printed rivets would be applied, so this was the next job, again using a TurboCAD drawing and printed labels. This time, I increased the printed rivet diameter to 0.75mm (from 0.5mm), to provide a better visual aid when applying the 0.36mm diameter printed rivets….







The yellow Post-it note was a low-tack means of ensuring the potentially flimsy labels ended up in the right place!


With the gutter overlay labels on, it’s time for some masking tape above and below, then more varnish, both for protection and to give a gloss surface for the Archer rivets to adhere to….








Finally, it’s time for the rivets themselves….







I need to put a protective coat of varnish over the rivets, then there is an etched gutter to go on, but I'll leave that until the other side is up to the same stage, as the overhanging ends could be quite vulnerable!

Time to do the other side now, but don’t hold your breath!


Regards

Dan

 

[SimonT]

What cracking idea. Thank you Dan for the time you have taken to document the technique. The other side should be far quicker!

Simon

 

[Steph Dale]

Dan,
That's awesome, reading the first para of your post I wondered if you were going to use transfer film, but love the approach you've taken.
What varnish did you use for sealing the paper? I can see it's not shellac, did you consider using it?
On my styrene carriages I use an angled scribe line to show the panel joints, which works well for me (or at least I think it will once painted and weathered), but you have got something there which is much more prototypical.
Love it!
Steph

 

[Dan Randall]

What cracking idea. Thank you Dan for the time you have taken to document the technique. The other side should be far quicker!

Simon

Thanks Simon. The other side might be a little quicker, but I wouldn't want to do a rake of them....


Regards

Dan

 

[Dan Randall]

Dan,
That's awesome, reading the first para of your post I wondered if you were going to use transfer film, but love the approach you've taken.
What varnish did you use for sealing the paper? I can see it's not shellac, did you consider using it?
On my styrene carriages I use an angled scribe line to show the panel joints, which works well for me (or at least I think it will once painted and weathered), but you have got something there which is much more prototypical.
Love it!
Steph

Thanks Steph. I do know of the existence of shellac, but must confess, I've never actually bought any (unless, as somebody once told me, Rustin's "Knotting", is actually shellac?). I just opened a tin Precision gloss varnish I had knocking around, which can be seen in the background of one of the photos. The labels are probably a little over scale in terms of thickness, but I reckon it'll look better than totally flat sides. I'm looking forward to seeing it in paint, but that's some way off at the moment.


Regards

Dan

 

[Dikitriki]

Hi Dan,

That's a lovely piece of work. Were you able to use any of the strips of Archer's transfers, or did they have to be applied individually?

One thing that does occur to me. How are you going to paint it - ie it seems to me that there is some risk of any spray primer reacting with the gloss varnish you have used?

Regards,

Richard

 

[Dan Randall]

Hi Dan,

That's a lovely piece of work. Were you able to use any of the strips of Archer's transfers, or did they have to be applied individually?

One thing that does occur to me. How are you going to paint it - ie it seems to me that there is some risk of any spray primer reacting with the gloss varnish you have used?

Regards,

Richard

Thanks Richard. The rivets were applied in strips of about 20 - 25 at a time. Indivual application was not an option, with 307 to do.

I haven't thought too much about the painting to be honest, though the sides and roof have already been sprayed with etch primer. The roof has already had a coat of enamel and the varnish is also enamel, so I may get away with priming the cast door furniture before fitting, then following up with an enamel top coat. The etched gutters are designed to be glued and pinned, so they can be primed before installation.


Regards

Dan

 

[oldravendale]

Hi Dan.

What a truly elegant answer to the issue of "showing" sheet metal.

Personally I've always steered away from using anything self adhesive, as in my experience the adhesive tends to age and lose it's properties. One common example is Sellotape, although the body line stripe on cars seem to last OK (probably because most cars don't last for much more than ten years anyway!) Do you believe that the varnish coating will act as a sealant in it's own right and prevent such deterioration? It'd be a huge shame to find the sides peeling off in a few years time.

Brian

 

[Steve Cook]

Thats a brilliant piece of workmanship Dan, enjoying the attention to detail
Steve

 

[Dan Randall]

Hi Dan.

What a truly elegant answer to the issue of "showing" sheet metal.

Personally I've always steered away from using anything self adhesive, as in my experience the adhesive tends to age and lose it's properties. One common example is Sellotape, although the body line stripe on cars seem to last OK (probably because most cars don't last for much more than ten years anyway!) Do you believe that the varnish coating will act as a sealant in it's own right and prevent such deterioration? It'd be a huge shame to find the sides peeling off in a few years time.

Brian

Hi Brian - I'm certainly hoping the labels will stay put, but only time will tell. I know what you mean about Sellotape losing its adhesion, but perhaps that's just a side effect of exposure to sunlight? With a couple of coats of paint keeping the rays at bay, I'm fairly confident the labels won't start lifting. Mind you, if they do, I may have invented a whole new distressing technique!


Regards

Dan