SimonD’s workbench

simond

Western Thunderer
The motor wiring is like this. The black rectangle is likely a diode to give half wave hence lower speed.
1761829493920.png


We believe the capacitor is wired like this

1761831099948.png

the two caps between line and earth are logically the 2500pF type Y and the one across the live and neutral is the 0.025uF
Job for next week as we have nothing suitable. Will order polyester as paper is a bit passe
 
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simond

Western Thunderer
Whilst waiting for capacitors to fix the lathe motor (which is now sparkly clean inside, the accumulations of brush dust and the odd bit of swarf thoroughly removed), I decided to get the finger out and finish the chassis for Tony’s Manor which, if your memory for my ramblings extends far enough into the past, you will recall started life as a rather nice scratch built model with coarse scale wheels on the tender and no underpinnings on the loco at all, which he purchased for 75 quid.

I had the chassis laser cut from brass, and assembled it and it sat there, glowering at me, as my attempts to make slide bars did not satisfy. The fretsaw and file approach would have been the final route had not the production manager at work taken pity and machined them on the edge of a bit of steel bar, from which they were finally cut with a disc in a Dremel, and then filed to width.

The cylinders, G brackets and crossheads are all 3DP. The rods & motor are from Bill at Premier Components. Slaters wheels and axleboxes, it’s CSB. The bushes are my usual modification of a Slaters bush, and the crankpin is a very short length of 1.6 NS, threaded 10 BA and screwed into the con rod which I tapped. The visible end was filed down with the pin in the Proxxon as the lathe’s in bits…. It should be a castle nut and split pin. Unfortunately I have had to use brass for the piston rod as I have no 2mm steel or NS, either of which would look nicer.

Anyway, one side done and it seems to turn ok, crosshead is a little bit tight, but that’ll ease with use, or I’ll ease it with a file!

image.jpg

Once the other side is sorted, I can strip the chassis glue on the springs, sandboxes, brake pivots and brake cylinder, get a coat of primer on it and then see if it needs anything else.

atb
Simon
 

simond

Western Thunderer
It’s had a session on the rolling road, it’s running sweetly, and has started to loosen up, but there’s a “snick” somewhere….

it can wait for tomorrow, I’ve had enough for today!
 

Giles

Western Thunderer
Piston rod..... under these circumstances I use silver-plating solution in a bottle. It's used for perking up silver plate. Just like polish, but it puts it on! Comes in a black bottle...
I'll remember exactly what it's called later....
 

Giles

Western Thunderer
Nushine or HSWalsh silver plating solution. In either instance, be aware of different size bottles/price and VAT and shipping.
A bottle may last you donkeys years, and is an excellent investment. Although it does a lovely job with real silver, it's forte is actually in modelling converting brass and N/S to steel... (though the manufacturers haven't realised this yet.) Many of my models have piston rods and cab grab rails that are silver plated.
 

Brian McKenzie

Western Thunderer
Barry, you’re a star too!

thanks
Simon
Barrry @lankytank (MetalSmith Leeds Ltd) is most certainly a star!

Last year, when I was in the UK briefly, he drove the distance from Leeds to Scaleforum at High Wycombe - specifically to ensure I received my weighty nickel-silver sheet order, before I flew home to NZ the next day. Not only was it well packaged, but also all guillotined to fit my suitcase dimensions. (Barry, I'll be looking to buy some 0.7mm n/s at GOG Wigan 6 Dec.)


Unfortunately I have had to use brass for the piston rod as I have no 2mm steel or NS, either of which would look nicer.
HSS drill blanks are ideal for use as piston rods. BLK - HSS Drill Blanks

A big plus is their availability in a huge range of tiny increments in diameter. Thus if 2mm dia. was not quite to scale for Simon, 1.994mm is the next size down, or 2.02mm dia. larger (just to give an idea of the size range). :thumbs:

-Brian McK.
 

Fitzroy

Western Thunderer
Barrry @lankytank (MetalSmith Leeds Ltd) is most certainly a star!

Last year, when I was in the UK briefly, he drove the distance from Leeds to Scaleforum at High Wycombe - specifically to ensure I received my weighty nickel-silver sheet order, before I flew home to NZ the next day. Not only was it well packaged, but also all guillotined to fit my suitcase dimensions. (Barry, I'll be looking to buy some 0.7mm n/s at GOG Wigan 6 Dec.)



HSS drill blanks are ideal for use as piston rods. BLK - HSS Drill Blanks

A big plus is their availability in a huge range of tiny increments in diameter. Thus if 2mm dia. was not quite to scale for Simon, 1.994mm is the next size down, or 2.02mm dia. larger (just to give an idea of the size range). :thumbs:

-Brian McK.
Drill Services Horley per the attached link above- very useful! I got my lifetime supply of Bassett-Lowke tender axle rod in a very archaic imperial size from them. Couldn't get them anywhere else.
 

simond

Western Thunderer
Lathe is back together, I meant to take photos of the capacitors in the housing but was too enthusiastic the get it sorted.

It sounded HORRIBLE. Vibration & noise, running slow. Initially I assumed it was the brushes, but there was nothing amiss there, so I looked at the front bearing which had come out of the housing when I was dismantling it - there is a strange spring washer which is held in place by the bearing retainer, which is staked in. This was slightly bent, and on straightening it, and reassembly, all was well. I hope I have sufficiently re-staked the bearing cap.

it now seems entirely fine. If anyone needs to copy the fix, the capacitors are


a total of £6.53

atb
Simon
 
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