News from JLTRT

Dog Star

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
pete waterman said:
Ok guys we can cover all this stuff just point us and we will follow.
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Pete,

There are several WT-ers here who have built S7 versions of the same JLTRT diesel kit... my understanding is that we have, collectively, produced as many different solutions as there have been S7 models. A major part of creating a S7 version of a JLTRT diesel is that of getting clearance between the outer face of the wheel boss and the rear face of the bogie frame so for the BT4 some discussion on this matter might well be appreciated by those who have posted to this topic.

regards, Graham
 
43179

43179

Western Thunderer
Nice to see the 47 in the works , will there be provision for crewe and Loughborough builds Pete?
(Ie , will the tail lights be separate fittings for example)

Regards

Jon
 
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mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
pete waterman said:
I will get a set of S7 wheels and work it out. Just so you know no bodys asked us to do this before so I will talk to Laurie in the factory and sort it out.
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Pete, you don't need to take much off the inside of the bogie frames, maybe just notch them thinner where the wheels go and leave the rest as your normal width. It just makes it easier for the S7 guys to drop in their wider wheel sets and not have to take a big file to the bogie side castings.

I'm all for more underfloor ribbing and structural detail, the 'flat floor society' have had their day ;) as you say it wouldn't take much in the CAD work to add some beams and general lumpy bits under the floor casting.

As Jon asks, hope you will accommodate other variants (for me a version without Serek radiator vanes and original three part radiator grill for those that model diesel to steam change over period would be nice) but fully understand if you do have to place a limit on that as there must be dozens of subtle variants through out the years, especially when you get into the more modern (late 80's) rebuilds.

I can send you the rest of the underframe walk around images I took of 370 if you think it would help you guys.

All the best

Mick
 
Dog Star

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
pete waterman said:
I will get a set of S7 wheels and work it out. Just so you know no bodys asked us to do this before so I will talk to Laurie in the factory and sort it out.
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The kit in question is the Cl.37 with fabricated bogies. The wheels are from Slater's and mounted on the standard S7 axle, the tyres have been re-profiled to the S7 standard whilst the thickness of the tyres and the boss have been reduced to the minimum that is possible with these wheels.

The tyres after thinning are 3.5mm against a target of 3.2mm for a prototype of 5.5" tyre thickness.

Without modification to the bogie inner / outer frames as supplied, these are the interesting dimensions:-

* over outer face of tyres - 38.00mm (say 0.6mm above scale dimension)
* over outer face of bosses - 38.75mm
* distance between inner face of bogie sides - 38.85mm (at the top of the sides)
* distance between inner face of bogie sides - 41.10mm (at the centre of the axleboxes)
* distance between inner face of bearing pads - 37.65mm.

Whilst there is clearance between the tyres and the bogie frame that clearance is less than 1mm generally and non-existant between the bearing pads (four off on each side of the bogie) and the front face of the tyres.

There are, I think, three ways to gain the clearance between the tyres of the wheels and the pads:-

* an alternative method of wheel construction that gives a scale tyre width;
* increase the separation of the bogie frames;
* keep the bogie frames at the current spacing and move the pads out on the bogie mouldings.

I am still thinking on the way forward...

regards, Graham
 
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Pugsley

Pugsley

Western Thunderer
Dog Star said:
* keep the bogie frames at the current spacing and move the pads out on the bogie mouldings.
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This, IMO, is the way forward for the 37. Look closely at the front of a prototype 37, the top of the bogie frame is only just inside the bottom of the body at the nose ends. I widened mine by roughly 1.5 - 2mm (it's not a dimension I noted anywhere) and I reckon it's pretty much in the right place. I cut both end pieces into two halves, glued styrene in the middle and then profiled it.

IMG_2786_web.jpg

Apologies for the poor photo - it's a crop from a larger one as I never took anything of that specific area. The best idea of the extra width can be gained from the inside of the cross-member, the correction fluid used for smoothing the joint makes it look bigger than it is on the top.

You'll have to extend the ends in two places (IIRC) as they're normally part of the inner moulding - you can't just space the ends out, or the cut-outs for the flanges will be in the wrong place unless, of course, you extend those after lengthening.

HTH
 
Dog Star

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Dog Star said:
There are, I think, three ways to gain the clearance between the tyres of the wheels and the pads:-

* ...
* ...
* keep the bogie frames at the current spacing and move the pads out on the bogie mouldings.
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Pugsley said:
This, IMO, is the way forward for the 37.
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Martin, you seem to be agreeing with me here and then I read...

Pugsley said:
Look closely at the front of a prototype 37, the top of the bogie frame is only just inside the bottom of the body at the nose ends. I widened mine by roughly 1.5 - 2mm (it's not a dimension I noted anywhere) and I reckon it's pretty much in the right place.
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where you seem to be saying that increasing the distance between the bogie outer mouldings produces a reasonable result. I am thinking that 0.5mm extra on each side shall give me sufficient clearance between the tyres and those pads - so a bogie which is 1mm wider than intended. If you are saying that increasing the width by 1.5mm overall puts the bogie frames in a place which looks reasonable then the dimensions given above become:-

* over face of tyres - 38.00mm;
* between pads - 39.00mm.

and I may be home and dry.

Very glad that you posted the picture, extending the end beams in the centre was not in my initial thinking, I like your approach better than my idea of spacers at the outer ends of those beams.
Pugsley said:
You'll have to extend the ends in two places (IIRC) as they're normally part of the inner moulding - you can't just space the ends out, or the cut-outs for the flanges will be in the wrong place unless, of course, you extend those after lengthening.
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Looking at your photo, how does this comment stack up with inserting a section into the middle of the end beam?

Thanks, Graham
 
Pugsley

Pugsley

Western Thunderer
I could pop a bit of material in the middle, as I'd already cut the bogie ends away from the cast inner, due to the way I built the bogies. I've assumed that you're using the resin inner (which may be wrong), so will not be doing the same. If you haven't used it, then crack on :thumbs:
 
pete waterman

pete waterman

Western Thunderer
Thanks guys I will go along micks idea. The way we do our kits we can do any version if you look at the 22 we are now doing another cab so that's 6 versions and that includes the first six that are completely different as long as we can sell them we can make them and with input from guys that know the type we can push our fantastic hobby forward.
 
richard carr

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Pete

It's great to see you doing a 47 but what my layout and I suspect a lot of peoples layouts need is a DMU kit to your standards.
I know we easibuild but the one thing they aren't is easy to build from the few I have seen built by friends. At one time I might have been prepared to put up with one of those but now I'm used to your kit's I not prepared to battle through a poor kit that doesn't really fit together properly.
So please put a DMU high up the list .

Thanks

Richard
 
pete waterman

pete waterman

Western Thunderer
yes our next kit which you should see at Telford is the Derby Light Weights. These will follow our norm in offering not just the diagrams for the Two car sets but will cover all the sets in fact they will cover The West Cumberland/Lincolnshire/East Anglia/Birmingham Area/Manchester Area/North Wales and yes even the Newcastle Sets in all there will be 5 types so will give you what you need. I take your point about brake block but it think you will like the way we get round this. The reason by the way we do the hanger and block together is its cheaper in brass than resin ! But I think we have the answer. Taking Richards point If there is a DMU type that we should think about let us know. I don't want to go in to the DMUs too far as I Easy Build have it well covered, but I don't think we clash as ours are very different kits and far more expensive so I don't see us taking there market away and anyway for most modellers there DMUs !
 
auld_boot

auld_boot

Western Thunderer
I would have thought the class 120 DMU would be a good possible as they eventually covered most of the UK and were reasonably long lived. Although I suppose based on coverage and live then the metro-cammells would have to be considered. Neither clash with Easybuild current range as far as I am aware of.
 
pete waterman

pete waterman

Western Thunderer
Yes I see they don't do this one. That would suggest that its not a MK1 profile ! is there one preserved to look at and measure ! I have the drawings here but need to look at one if I can.
 
demu1037

demu1037

Western Thunderer
pete waterman said:
Yes I see they don't do this one. That would suggest that its not a MK1 profile ! is there one preserved to look at and measure ! I have the drawings here but need to look at one if I can.
Click to expand...
Pete,

AFAIK the only preserved/surviving 120 is the TSLRB at Loughborough

Andy
 
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