Brian Daniels diesel workbench

Brian Daniels

Western Thunderer
This Judith Edge Janus has taken a bit longer than I would have liked but life keeps getting in the way. Anyway here it is waiting to be weathered then I'll put the windows in. It took ages to paint in a plain yellow as I had to brush paint the walkways and steps in black as it just didn't look right in yellow as well. Then the stripes! These are Fox shunter chevrons cut down and put on in quite a few sections. It had to have a logo or something on it so I dug out a couple of wagon Allied Steel & Wire ones which look ok even if they never ran Janus loco's in reality. As it's got a DCC chip in it I had to assign it a number so it was a case of think of a number and I came up with 14. The headlights are from Lee Edmondson. The cab light is a small Heljan PCB from a loco cab I had spare which is great as you don't need a resistor with it as it's already on the PCB. The flashing light is from some I got off the internet a few years ago and fitted with a pre wired nano LED. It's got an 8 pin ESU chip from Legomanbiffo complete with a stay alive and does run rather well. It was a right pain wiring it all up with plugs and sockets and resistors and then trying to get it all in a hood without trapping any wires.002rs.jpg005rs.jpg006rs.jpg008rs.jpg011rs.jpg016rs.jpg022rs.jpg017rs.jpg
 

Debs.

Western Thunderer
Loving the block instruments on the signal box shelf interior detail. In fact, `loving it all, well done Brian! :thumbs:
Deborah.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Just got round to weathering a Heljan class 26 that I painted a couple of years ago. Driver and secondman included from Modelu, that they have just done, specifically for these models with a bit of there buttocks removed so they sit in the seats now.
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I think it's the depth of field that makes these 'pop', just enough to replicate real life and not overdone like you see elsewhere.
 

Brian Daniels

Western Thunderer
A project I started a while back was this JLTRT 2251. It got put on the back burner when it came to the inside valve gear. A friend made up the crank axle and soldered the Finney etched bits round it, even so I was a bit out of my comfort zone when used to diesel stuff. But I think I got it going ok now. I have just got onto the tender which was interesting to make as the instruction sheet miss a lot out and what is there is not clear. There was a CD with the kit but it won't open so I have no idea if there was more info on it. I have been using pictures I took of the tender from 3205 when it was split from the loco at Didcot, link here to them on my Flickr site 2251 Details . I have not cleaned any solder up yet so it looks a bit of a mess especially on the front dragbeam where I had to remove the nice little buffer castings as it would not turn with them fitted. The water scoop is a bit low so when I get the wheels sorted from Slaters I will have to chop a bit out of that to raise it up. Also the rods that support the main scoop bit don't seem to have a fixing point or am I missing something. Unfortunately the one with 3205 does not have a scoop and associated rodding/cranks. Tender body is not glued to the chassis just yet. I am a bit worried as to the strength of the top rail on this as I can see me bending it when handling it.

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mickoo

Western Thunderer
JLTRT are a real mish mash, some are good, some less so; all suffer in the instruction department and many suffer parts not fitting. The ex Mitchell ones seem to be the best I've built so far, the other less so. Castings seem to be a lottery, none of something yet three of another, often not for the kit you're building.

The scoop is a generic part and needs to be trimmed (height) to suit the particular tender, the instructions would/should (normally) tell you this ;) and the tie rods should attach to the side of the vertical pipe in a casting fixing sort of thing, clearly missing on your casting, the tie rods should be straight but model wise a taper is often required.

The coal rave on the tender is a concern and yes it's easy to get bent or snagged and it makes little difference if the body is brass or resin, it's still easy to bend, pretty much the same for any Mitchell or Finney kit where the raves are half etched for rivets and beading etc.

Crank axle looks good, all the rods are straight and line up with the cylinder block so motion centres are all good, a lot of the time the two mismatch. Usually the cylinder block motion centres are to scale width, but the frames are too narrow and force the cranks inboard, you then end up with pigeon toed connecting rods or dog legged I've seen occasionally.
 

Brian Daniels

Western Thunderer
Finished the tender at last. I added a couple of pickups to the outer wheels to assist things along. There was no vacuum tank casting as shown on the CD pictures so I made one out of some brass tubing I had to hand. Think I got the water scoop right as I had to make some levers as no etches in the kit. Finishing off little jobs on the loco now.
I want to do this as 2221, an Oxford and Didcot loco for years but who does plates? I see Severn Mill does not list 2221 nor does Fox. Is it just Diane Carney left?

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