Wencombe /Kingsbridge Regis/Louville Lane

Alan

Western Thunderer
I agree with you Heather about the Green one (Empress), needs a little more work on the roof. Enterprise is based on a couple of photos of her before her repaint.
 

daifly

Western Thunderer
One of those "we'll never know" questions is why the Green Westerns didn't get a grey stripe at mid-height like Green Warships did..??!?? It would've helped that livery no end.
Actually, I think that we do know. I seem to recall that the answer lies in the pages of 'Western Dawn' by Adrian Curtis. I suspect that Misha Black didn't want it. I'll check it out when I get home later.
 

daifly

Western Thunderer
Having read through the relevant correspondence in 'Western Dawn', there were various liveries proposed and applied. The relevant comment regarding the grey stripe was made by George Williams, the BTC Design Officer, who wrote: '....we would not wish the 2,700 h.p. locomotive to be relieved by a line in this way.'
Another livery suggestion had a broad band at the bottom of each side in a contrast colour which Black hated.
 

Jordan or Plymouth Mad

Mid-Western Thunderer
So two-tone green was also a non-starter for the Westerns, then..? Even though it looked good on Hymeks...
Seems like the Design Board wanted the Westerns to be any colour as long as it was Maroon, & made anything else look drab in comparison...
Didn't Misha Black want a sort of turquoise colour at first, which eventually morphed into Rail Blue??
 

Alan

Western Thunderer
At long last I've got round to renumbering and re-routing? my Bristol LS. Ideally it would be the smaller Bristol SU but I haven't been able to source one and it took me a couple of years to find what might have been the last LS in Western National colours.
The route number actually applied to the Ivybridge to Paignton via Totnes route, however Rule 1 was applied at it became Ivybridge to Dartmouth via Totnes.
Here it can be seen negotiating the tight bend at the Armada crossroads, hence why the service was normally an SU.

LS f1.jpg

LS f2.jpg

LS f3.jpg
 

Alan

Western Thunderer
Another diesel for you hydraulic lovers, but just like Geoff it is the wrong shade of blue (too much yellow in they say). D63331 0n an excursion.D63331 f1.JPGD6331 f3.jpgD6331 f2.jpg

By the way if any of you smaller scale modellers out there have used the new Wills Point Rodding kit, how did you join the ends up, did you just butt join as Wills suggest, did you support?reinforce it underneath with a slither of plasticard or did you do it a different way.
 

Geoff

Western Thunderer
Very nice Alan, I must get my finger out and finish my own Baby Warship.

I'm currently installing the Wills point rodding and have reinforced each joint with microstrip. I also carried out a few other mods. such as reducing the height of the stools by filing away most of the base as they stand way too high. The actual rods are near 7mm scale so I scraped and filed them down, hope you don't mind me hijacking your thread with this photo............

P1080964.JPG

There are a few more photos showing WIP here which might be of interest to you...........have fun ! http://radnorailways.blogspot.co.uk/2013/12/point-rodding-pt2.html
 

Steve Cook

Flying Squad
Quick question for you 4mm chaps, what is the advantage of the Wills point rodding over using 0.4 square section nickel rod and whitemetal stools? Is it just a detail thing ie the cranks etc look better than the etched ones or an assembly one (avoiding burnt fingers from assembling them)?. Just curious as my experience of the 4mm stuff was fun but fiddly, but I had no concerns over accidental knocks etc.
Steve
 

Geoff

Western Thunderer
Quick question for you 4mm chaps, what is the advantage of the Wills point rodding over using 0.4 square section nickel rod and whitemetal stools? Is it just a detail thing ie the cranks etc look better than the etched ones or an assembly one (avoiding burnt fingers from assembling them)?. Just curious as my experience of the 4mm stuff was fun but fiddly, but I had no concerns over accidental knocks etc.
Steve


I hope Alan doesn't mind me replying to your query here Steve, for me it's pretty much a case of trying the parts out.
The cast stools and scale sized etched cranks could hardly be seen on Penhydd and I think point rodding is one of those details that are perhaps better modelled slightly over scale so you can actually see it. It's just as fiddly to assemble and needs a lot of patience, it's quicker than other options but certainly not a cheap one. Should I decide to abandon the trial then I would use the Brassmasters etched stools and cranks rather than the whitemetal type.

http://www.brassmasters.co.uk/track_details.htm Hope that answers your questions.

Thanks Geoff.


No problem Alan, have you started using it yet or are you just toying with the idea ?
 
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