7mm Richards P48 US Thread

Brian McKenzie

Western Thunderer
Tony,

My hobby space is heavily insulated with thick sheets of polystyrene behind the wall and ceiling linings. It's very effective at maintaining the temperature within - but when the internal temperature falls during winter months, the insulation unhelpfully keeps it like a fridge! External aluminium tilt doors have unlined 50mm polystyrene glued to the inside face. Never any condensation evident anywhere, and happily never any need to oil up bare steel materials and tools/machinery for protection.

It's a large area - so a bit costly to heat if not in regular use during the coldest winter period. A heat pump gets used then, above one limited work bench area. The polystyrene insulation is best at sheltering from bursts of high summer temperatures.

As I learnt from the electrician, avoid pulling standard PVC electrical cable through polystyrene, as plasticizers migrate, causing deterioration of both materials - and the possibility of a 'short', or a fire in the worst case, where there is any movement of the cable. Use non-migratory cable, which is often coloured purple for easy identification. This explains the sticky goey mess you may have seen in cable sheathing when it's been in contact with polystyrene.

-Brian McK.
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
So although it's been a bit chilly and someone did have a turkey to cook on Christmas day, I did manage to sneak off for the odd half hour to do a bit more.

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So most of the track is now screwed down, I have also decided to electrically insulate this part of the layout and fit a separate booster for it, so there should be plenty of power to get trains up the hill. I'm just waiting for the 10m RJ12 cable to arrive.

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Next I need to get the bridge in connecting the two layouts, hopefully today.

Richard
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Hi Stephen

It's not part of the plan, it's finescale for a start and converting it toP48 is probably challenging and not worth the effort, maybe if I printed a whole new deck it might work.

Richard
 

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
Hi Stephen

It's not part of the plan, it's finescale for a start and converting it toP48 is probably challenging and not worth the effort, maybe if I printed a whole new deck it might work.

Richard
I was just thinking, popping the base of the Atlas bridge in the milling machine. Could mill two perfectly spaced channels for some timber, to which the rail could be spiked.

JB.
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
So yesterday I set about adding a DCC booster to the layout so that the hill and the branch would be a separate power zone.

I haven't done anything like this for a while, it is of course a bit more complicated than you might think and like anything to do with DCC takes far longer than you imagine.

So to position the booster near to where you want it to power the track you need to run a CAB bus wire (RJ12) from the command station to the booster.
It seems the longest you can get is 10 m so I ordered one of those and a 5 m one and a connector from Amazon. Of course the 10m turned up and the connector but not the 5m that's coming on Monday, great. So I found one on the B&Q website bought it click and collect and then went to pick it up. This turned out to be a RJ11 wire, ie 4 wires int he cable as opposed to 6 in the RJ12 so no good, but it wasn't a totally wasted trip as I did spot a few other things that I did want to by like some more cable ties.

Finally I did find another RJ12 cable that was spare from when I set up the CAB BUS for the Uk layout so that was going to have to do for now.


So adding the CAB BUS was the easy bit

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The connector works too.

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Now the fun starts, fitting the booster. I use Digitrax for the US layout, I much prefer their contollers especially the small ones.
I use a DCS 210 as the command station and I have a spare one that I intended to use as the booster. To work as booster it needs to be configured as a booster as opposed to a command station. For once YouTube didn't have the answer so I ended up searching through the manual
and eventually on page 29 it tells you how to do it.

So this is the command station (I know it's a DCS240 but it almost exactly the same as a 210 execpt they charge a lot more for them)

So first you need to put the mode switch in the bottom right hand corner into the middle position marked OP


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Then you need to plug in one of these controllers with a BUS wire (it doesn't work over radio)
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Then you need to press the S button, this brings up the internal software switches, press 2 for switch number 2 and then closed which I think was the B key, that then makes it a booster.

Then you can plug it together and it lights up like this

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Just make sure the polarity is the same as the command station and you can smoothly pass from one power zone to the next.
I use the HO voltage, it puts out about 15 volts, that needs to be the same as the command station too.

So more BUS cable has been ordered from Amazon and it should arrive this morning so I can move this into it's intended position in the opposite corner of the layout.
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
So more progress as my holiday has been delayed, so 3 more days to work onthe layout !

The bridge over tot he UK layout fiddle yard is in.

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Once over the bridge the first switch will go in, there will be 3 sidings and the main line.

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The next two boards are going in, but it is getting a bit tight in places, I'll definitely need some limited clearance signs

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mickoo

Western Thunderer
Perhaps too late now, but it might be possible to cut through the ply skin above the height of the locos and then peel off the skin by chiselling in from the base. The three core layers should still be more than strong enough to support the deck above.

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richard carr

Western Thunderer
So last thing of this year was to continue the weathering of 703, this time I added some extra white with a paint bursh and then attacked it with weathering powders but in a gentle manner and I added some rust.

This is the result

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So that's it for 2025, I'm heading off on holidays with the boss tomorrow, but I will be sneaking some things to draw while I'm away sitting in the Caribbean sun.

See you all next year, enjoy the celebrations

Richard
 
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