Oakville 7mm Ivatt class 2 tank
- Thread starter P A D
- Start date
P A D
Western Thunderer
To complete the work for now on the Ivatt, I've made the steam heating and vacuum pipes from brass rod.
To represent the reinforced hoses I added a thread to the rod with an 8BA die, leaving enough unthreaded for the metal parts. I then annealed before shaping and adding the flange detail from 0.6mm D shaped nugold wire. The stowage chains for the heating pipes are made from 0.2mm twisted wire.
It will need a good clean before painting but I'm putting it aside for now until I have purchased and fitted the motor .
Next up is the Gladiator Horwich Mogul. I suspect it will be far less trying than this was!
Cheers,
Peter
To represent the reinforced hoses I added a thread to the rod with an 8BA die, leaving enough unthreaded for the metal parts. I then annealed before shaping and adding the flange detail from 0.6mm D shaped nugold wire. The stowage chains for the heating pipes are made from 0.2mm twisted wire.
It will need a good clean before painting but I'm putting it aside for now until I have purchased and fitted the motor .
Next up is the Gladiator Horwich Mogul. I suspect it will be far less trying than this was!
Cheers,
Peter
P A D
Western Thunderer
With the warm dry weather in the last couple of weeks I've been able to get my painting head on and spray the Ivatt tank.
Before painting I made and fitted the pick ups and motor and gave it a test run to ensure all was well. I then stripped it down, thoroughly cleaned all the parts, masked up the wheel treads and gave the lot a coat of Halfords' red oxide primer, followed by a coat of satin black on the frames, wheels and trucks and gloss black on the body. Here are the frames after reassembly.
I've settled on the cast white metal back head, painted black with the details picked out in copper, brass and matt brown. Here it is before completion. To finish off I made the regulator rod from brass strip, added some dials to the gauges and painted the inside of the water gauges in chrome paint. It's not
brilliant, but it looks the part inside the enclosed cab.
Here are some views of the finished article. When I say finished, I mean apart from the lining, numbering, lacquering and weathering before fitting the glazing. The roof is only "tack glued" in place with a couple of drops of PVA fot now.
I've picked out various details in copper and brass paint as appropriate. It looks a bit garish at the moment but once it's toned down it should compare pretty well with the Lionheart offering.
I'm bringing it along to the Wigan show tomorrow to give it a run round the test track, so keep a look out for it if you are interested. Hopefully there will be no issues with the truck clearances on the curves as I haven't been able to test that yet. I'll bring my Scorpio Std 3 tank as well.
Cheers,
Peter
Before painting I made and fitted the pick ups and motor and gave it a test run to ensure all was well. I then stripped it down, thoroughly cleaned all the parts, masked up the wheel treads and gave the lot a coat of Halfords' red oxide primer, followed by a coat of satin black on the frames, wheels and trucks and gloss black on the body. Here are the frames after reassembly.
I've settled on the cast white metal back head, painted black with the details picked out in copper, brass and matt brown. Here it is before completion. To finish off I made the regulator rod from brass strip, added some dials to the gauges and painted the inside of the water gauges in chrome paint. It's not
brilliant, but it looks the part inside the enclosed cab.
Here are some views of the finished article. When I say finished, I mean apart from the lining, numbering, lacquering and weathering before fitting the glazing. The roof is only "tack glued" in place with a couple of drops of PVA fot now.
I've picked out various details in copper and brass paint as appropriate. It looks a bit garish at the moment but once it's toned down it should compare pretty well with the Lionheart offering.
I'm bringing it along to the Wigan show tomorrow to give it a run round the test track, so keep a look out for it if you are interested. Hopefully there will be no issues with the truck clearances on the curves as I haven't been able to test that yet. I'll bring my Scorpio Std 3 tank as well.
Cheers,
Peter
P A D
Western Thunderer
I'm pleased to report that the Ivatt ran very nicely at Wigan despite some dodgy joints on the test track, with no clearance issues on the curves. The Scorpio Std 3 tank also ran well as did my Stanier class 4 tank and as always, the chap looking after the test track was very accommodating.
The chaps on the Dapol stand were also very indulgent in allowing me to compare my model with the decorated Ivatt samples that they had on show.
Cheers,
Peter
The chaps on the Dapol stand were also very indulgent in allowing me to compare my model with the decorated Ivatt samples that they had on show.
Cheers,
Peter
P A D
Western Thunderer
Back on the Ivatt class 2 I've made a start on the lining. After doing the boiler bands and cylinders I moved on to the tank and cab sides. First I marked out the perimeter of the panel with masking tape. Fox Transfers do a dedicated lining set for this prototype, the left hand side panel can be seen above the loco after the upper step down and lower step up sections had been removed and applied.
Then I applied the the extremities of the "rectangle" one corner at a time. After that, filling in the straights between the gaps can begin.
All done.
And after adding the BR Totem.
Starting to look the part now.
Next up, tother side.
Cheers,
Peter
Then I applied the the extremities of the "rectangle" one corner at a time. After that, filling in the straights between the gaps can begin.
All done.
And after adding the BR Totem.
Starting to look the part now.
Next up, tother side.
Cheers,
Peter
Dave Holt
Western Thunderer
Looking very nice, Peter.
The friend who lined my P4 model used the Fox dedicated transfer set and cut them into smaller section to apply to make it more manageable.
Do you ever fear for the masking tape pulling off some of the paint when being removed or is it a very low tack type?
Dave.
The friend who lined my P4 model used the Fox dedicated transfer set and cut them into smaller section to apply to make it more manageable.
Do you ever fear for the masking tape pulling off some of the paint when being removed or is it a very low tack type?
Dave.
P A D
Western Thunderer
Further progress has been made on the lining with the completion of the right hand side and the addition of the running number.
I have removed the oil feed pipes from the outer face of the right hand lubricator which I applied erroneously.
I have also added the glazing and fixed the roof in place. I'll need to mask off the glazing before spraying the varnish and weathering.
As I had the roof off to fix the glazing I took the opportunity to take some images of the cab interior.
Cheers,
Peter
I have removed the oil feed pipes from the outer face of the right hand lubricator which I applied erroneously.
I have also added the glazing and fixed the roof in place. I'll need to mask off the glazing before spraying the varnish and weathering.
As I had the roof off to fix the glazing I took the opportunity to take some images of the cab interior.
Cheers,
Peter
LarryG
Western Thunderer
Your cabside numerals are too widely spaced, but they're in the right place with their bottom edge in line with the bottom of the lion & wheel transfer. The problem lies with the lining, which is ever so slightly too low under the cab windows. The lining also looks slightly overscale to me.
Last edited:
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
I fear you are correct, Peter, although I didn't want to mention it previously. Here are a couple of photos from my personal collection which may help. I have several more if you need them, mainly at Nine Elms and Eastleigh although none of 41205 itself.
41312 at Barry Scrapyard 9 November 1968.
41313 at Barry Scrapyard 18 November 1967
Brian
P A D
Western Thunderer
Thanks Larry and Brian.
Thanks for the comments Larry,
I agree, the lining (Fox Transfers) is too wide, but I don't have the skill to line it out with one of the many ruling pens in my drawing instrument collection. I take your point about the position of the lining on the cab sides. I believe the position of the BR Totem is correct, so I'm thinking that lowering the numbers slightly will look better on the cab side and not really look out of place compared to the totem. I will also set them closer together. When the model is dulled down I think the lines won't look so wide.
I have ordered a lining set from Railtech to compare to Fox and may use them on the Crab and Fowler 4P, but I can live with the lining on the Ivatt.
Thanks for the images Brian.
Cheers,
Peter
Thanks for the comments Larry,
I agree, the lining (Fox Transfers) is too wide, but I don't have the skill to line it out with one of the many ruling pens in my drawing instrument collection. I take your point about the position of the lining on the cab sides. I believe the position of the BR Totem is correct, so I'm thinking that lowering the numbers slightly will look better on the cab side and not really look out of place compared to the totem. I will also set them closer together. When the model is dulled down I think the lines won't look so wide.
I have ordered a lining set from Railtech to compare to Fox and may use them on the Crab and Fowler 4P, but I can live with the lining on the Ivatt.
Thanks for the images Brian.
Cheers,
Peter