Phill Dyson
Western Thunderer
Morfa - back from the brink
Well worth the effort Neil 8)
Well worth the effort Neil 8)
4mm Morfa - The race is run.
- Thread starter Neil
- Start date
S
Simon Dunkley
Guest
Morfa - back from the brink
Nice.
Have you been putting up more backscenes, too?
Nice.
Have you been putting up more backscenes, too?
Neil
Western Thunderer
Morfa - back from the brink
Thank you, and no I haven't. The last photo in particular does give the impression that the backscene has grown though the edge of it does still lie just out of shot on the left. The only other woodwork that I've done recently is to build a pen for the latest wave of egg machines, the last lot succumbing to the not so fabulous Mr Fox earlier this year.
Simon Dunkley said:
Thank you, and no I haven't. The last photo in particular does give the impression that the backscene has grown though the edge of it does still lie just out of shot on the left. The only other woodwork that I've done recently is to build a pen for the latest wave of egg machines, the last lot succumbing to the not so fabulous Mr Fox earlier this year.
S
Simon Dunkley
Guest
Morfa - and it was all going so well
Well, you never know, someone else might want to put a horse in it...marsa69 said:'Ere! Who ordered this stable door?
westernfan
Western Thunderer
Morfa - back from the brink
have you built underground defences as them foxes like abit of digging . i used corrugated iron sheets bent at right angles to stop mister fox digging under and then up into the coop , when i last kept hens ( rhode island reds ) ahh them double yolkers
have you built underground defences as them foxes like abit of digging . i used corrugated iron sheets bent at right angles to stop mister fox digging under and then up into the coop , when i last kept hens ( rhode island reds ) ahh them double yolkers
Neil
Western Thunderer
Morfa - in praise of Airfix
I love the Airfix railway series of kits; there's something elementally right about them that lends realism far beyond their face value. Perhaps it's because they subliminally transport one back to the days of Ladybird books (Tootles the Taxi anyone?), scabby knees and the Corona pop lorry. In the sixties they were as clichéd as a Superquick goods shed, today I reckon they are undervalued gems. At the recent Corris show I got hold of four quids worth of Dapol retro loveliness in the shape of the bungalow kit. it's place on Morfa will be as the toll cottage at the Barmouth end of the bridge. Here's where I've got up to with it.
I've built it on an 80thou plasticard base to add strength and dissuade the walls from warping when the slightly out of shape roof is fixed down. The roof was a lot more out of shape before I taped it to a ceramic tile and poured almost boiling water over it. There's some way to go but all the windows are in. I've described a new technique that I've used for the hammered glass in the bathroom and front door windows on RMweb here. There's still some way to go, weathering, roof and some detail painting, but I think you should be able to get the gist of how it will pan out.
I love the Airfix railway series of kits; there's something elementally right about them that lends realism far beyond their face value. Perhaps it's because they subliminally transport one back to the days of Ladybird books (Tootles the Taxi anyone?), scabby knees and the Corona pop lorry. In the sixties they were as clichéd as a Superquick goods shed, today I reckon they are undervalued gems. At the recent Corris show I got hold of four quids worth of Dapol retro loveliness in the shape of the bungalow kit. it's place on Morfa will be as the toll cottage at the Barmouth end of the bridge. Here's where I've got up to with it.
I've built it on an 80thou plasticard base to add strength and dissuade the walls from warping when the slightly out of shape roof is fixed down. The roof was a lot more out of shape before I taped it to a ceramic tile and poured almost boiling water over it. There's some way to go but all the windows are in. I've described a new technique that I've used for the hammered glass in the bathroom and front door windows on RMweb here. There's still some way to go, weathering, roof and some detail painting, but I think you should be able to get the gist of how it will pan out.
ceejaydee
Western Thunderer
Morfa - in praise of Airfix
I think for those of a certain age the Airfix range is/was iconic and possibly continues to be so for those who are happy to convert relatively cheap kits for their own use.
Many a happy hour has been spent building such kits and they feel 'right'.
I also found the box or blister card artwork appealing.
When I was toying around with my indoor shunting plank in 1:32 I simply scaled up an Airfix engine shed kit and made a mock up in card to see how it felt - huge but satisfying, like an old friend in many ways.
I think for those of a certain age the Airfix range is/was iconic and possibly continues to be so for those who are happy to convert relatively cheap kits for their own use.
Many a happy hour has been spent building such kits and they feel 'right'.
I also found the box or blister card artwork appealing.
When I was toying around with my indoor shunting plank in 1:32 I simply scaled up an Airfix engine shed kit and made a mock up in card to see how it felt - huge but satisfying, like an old friend in many ways.
Eastsidepilot
Western Thunderer
Morfa - in praise of Airfix
I started modeling with Airfix as a very young lad, a lot of aircraft and military stuff, used to like building alternative versions( early scratch building) with drawings and info from my Fathers " Aircraft of the Fighting Powers" volumes. I was also into railways (Triang) and ended up combining the two interests. The Airfix rolling stock was/is good value.
A combination of Airfix and having a modelmaking Father are to blame for what I do today
Col.
ceejaydee said:
I started modeling with Airfix as a very young lad, a lot of aircraft and military stuff, used to like building alternative versions( early scratch building) with drawings and info from my Fathers " Aircraft of the Fighting Powers" volumes. I was also into railways (Triang) and ended up combining the two interests. The Airfix rolling stock was/is good value.
A combination of Airfix and having a modelmaking Father are to blame for what I do today
Col.
Jordan or Plymouth Mad
Mid-Western Thunderer
Morfa - in praise of Airfix
Yes, Airfix was my first modelling experience; a roomful of Spitfires, Hurricanes, a Wellington & Lancaster, plus other stuff like the Lunar Lander and a few jet fighters... my first Railway kit was "Biggin Hill" - more because of the RAF connection than for loco type!!
One question though - did anyone ever make any of the steam locos and manage to make the supplied coupling rods function properly..??
Yes, Airfix was my first modelling experience; a roomful of Spitfires, Hurricanes, a Wellington & Lancaster, plus other stuff like the Lunar Lander and a few jet fighters... my first Railway kit was "Biggin Hill" - more because of the RAF connection than for loco type!!
One question though - did anyone ever make any of the steam locos and manage to make the supplied coupling rods function properly..??
Neil
Western Thunderer
Morfa - one step forward, two steps back
Creeping dissatisfaction with the bridge deck has finally progressed to the point where I feel compelled to do something about it. The something is to start the build again with narrower timbers for the deck planks. I thought it might be possible to get away with the coffee stirrers as is, but they do look too chunky so I've dusted off my trimming jig that I constructed right at the outset but never got round to using. I'm currently one twelfth of the way through the trimming process. Whilst I've bit this particular bullet, I thought I may as well take the opportunity to tweak the bridge radius a little to give a better flow, and I've also decided to do away with the walkway alongside the running line. The proportions of the whole structure will look better for it. The paths to the bridge at both ends will still be there, I have a sneaky plan to give some sense to that at the Barmouth end as it's such a distinctive part of the scene. I'm also going to paint rather than stain the bridge; spray cans on standby.
Creeping dissatisfaction with the bridge deck has finally progressed to the point where I feel compelled to do something about it. The something is to start the build again with narrower timbers for the deck planks. I thought it might be possible to get away with the coffee stirrers as is, but they do look too chunky so I've dusted off my trimming jig that I constructed right at the outset but never got round to using. I'm currently one twelfth of the way through the trimming process. Whilst I've bit this particular bullet, I thought I may as well take the opportunity to tweak the bridge radius a little to give a better flow, and I've also decided to do away with the walkway alongside the running line. The proportions of the whole structure will look better for it. The paths to the bridge at both ends will still be there, I have a sneaky plan to give some sense to that at the Barmouth end as it's such a distinctive part of the scene. I'm also going to paint rather than stain the bridge; spray cans on standby.
Neil
Western Thunderer
Morfa - one step forward, two steps back
Update: About half way through cutting the new deck timbers to width, another couple of sessions should do it. The good news is that between the stirrer manufacturers lax tolerances and my dubious cutting the resulting pieces aren't quite parallel; I should be able to exploit this to get a better fit round the curve.
Update: About half way through cutting the new deck timbers to width, another couple of sessions should do it. The good news is that between the stirrer manufacturers lax tolerances and my dubious cutting the resulting pieces aren't quite parallel; I should be able to exploit this to get a better fit round the curve.
Phill Dyson
Western Thunderer
Morfa - one step forward, two steps back
I really liked the bridge before, but it will look even better narrowed IMO...........I really like the stained finish from what we can see in the pics 8)
Phill
I really liked the bridge before, but it will look even better narrowed IMO...........I really like the stained finish from what we can see in the pics 8)
Phill
Neil
Western Thunderer
Morfa - one step forward, two steps back
Phill, I too like the appearance of the stained timbers in the photo, however the camera flatters, in reality it's just not right. Paint also has the advantage that I can build without worrying about the glue marking the timbers.
Ian, not sure how the real Cambrian bridges are configured to give safe refuges, they appear to just have straight railings. Only two have a walkway or road alongside that could offer the chance to dodge out of the way. Will check pics and with one of my contacts to see if I can work out what happens at the majority of the bridges.
Phill, I too like the appearance of the stained timbers in the photo, however the camera flatters, in reality it's just not right. Paint also has the advantage that I can build without worrying about the glue marking the timbers.
Ian, not sure how the real Cambrian bridges are configured to give safe refuges, they appear to just have straight railings. Only two have a walkway or road alongside that could offer the chance to dodge out of the way. Will check pics and with one of my contacts to see if I can work out what happens at the majority of the bridges.
Neil
Western Thunderer
Morfa - Victory from the jaws of defeat.
This last couple of weeks hasn't been very productive on the model making front. A cold, kitchen refurbishment and clearing up after puss' random acts of crapping have put a crimp on time and energy. However, Thursday evening looked like a good time to indulge in some railway play.
Time for a treat I thought; I'll see about a quick and simple EM conversion of the Limby 101, that lay untouched in its box for the last seven years or so. Half an hour later the wheels on the power car had been levered out to the right width. Plonk on track, turn up the juice; what a god awful racket. I'd not noticed how huge the flanges were, it didn't just hit the chairs as it thudded along I'd swear it clouted each and every sleeper too. Ok, lets jam some other wheels on the axle. Problem; axles fatter than standard and by the time I'd reamed out the insulating bush on a wheel I'd borrowed from my 103 there was no insulation left. Time to try another tack. This time I chucked one wheel on its axle in the collet of my pendant drill, and tickled the flange with a file. Flangeless DMU wheel anyone? So the score on Thursday was two DMUs broken in one evening.
This morning I thought I'd see if I could salvage something. The previously mentioned 103, has been something of a problem child ever since I started building it. In a moment of bravado I decided to build a motor bogie for it. It had similarities to the old Triang diesel bogies with a Mashima motor placed longitudinally between the axles and driving through a pair of Tenshodo spud gears. Initially it kept locking up and try as I might I couldn't adjust it to run smoothly, so I took one set of gears out which improved matters. It could just about manage to haul itself out of Abergwynant's fiddle yard and into the platform (a straight run of 18") but when I showed it Morfa and curves it just turned its toes up. It went back into its box and pretty much stayed there till I robbed it of a wheel.
I began to wonder yesterday evening about rebuilding the motor bogie, but I thought I'd have one last go at tweaking. The first stage was to swipe another insulating bush from a spare donor wheel to replace the one I'd reamed away. I also took out some of the sideplay in the axle furthest away from the motor support with a washer. Both axles were knurled in the centre to get a better grip on the worm by pressing and rolling with a file. After taking out the slop in the axle I added some to the gear meshing shifting the motor up a fraction in its mount. I was utterly gobsmacked when I put it on the track to test. Recalcitrant b@st@rd to complient angel in half an hour.
The upshot is that I've had the smirk of self satisfaction plastered on my face ever since. Partly because the challenge has been overcome, but mainly because Morfa just looks so right with a unit trundling round.
This last couple of weeks hasn't been very productive on the model making front. A cold, kitchen refurbishment and clearing up after puss' random acts of crapping have put a crimp on time and energy. However, Thursday evening looked like a good time to indulge in some railway play.
Time for a treat I thought; I'll see about a quick and simple EM conversion of the Limby 101, that lay untouched in its box for the last seven years or so. Half an hour later the wheels on the power car had been levered out to the right width. Plonk on track, turn up the juice; what a god awful racket. I'd not noticed how huge the flanges were, it didn't just hit the chairs as it thudded along I'd swear it clouted each and every sleeper too. Ok, lets jam some other wheels on the axle. Problem; axles fatter than standard and by the time I'd reamed out the insulating bush on a wheel I'd borrowed from my 103 there was no insulation left. Time to try another tack. This time I chucked one wheel on its axle in the collet of my pendant drill, and tickled the flange with a file. Flangeless DMU wheel anyone? So the score on Thursday was two DMUs broken in one evening.
This morning I thought I'd see if I could salvage something. The previously mentioned 103, has been something of a problem child ever since I started building it. In a moment of bravado I decided to build a motor bogie for it. It had similarities to the old Triang diesel bogies with a Mashima motor placed longitudinally between the axles and driving through a pair of Tenshodo spud gears. Initially it kept locking up and try as I might I couldn't adjust it to run smoothly, so I took one set of gears out which improved matters. It could just about manage to haul itself out of Abergwynant's fiddle yard and into the platform (a straight run of 18") but when I showed it Morfa and curves it just turned its toes up. It went back into its box and pretty much stayed there till I robbed it of a wheel.
I began to wonder yesterday evening about rebuilding the motor bogie, but I thought I'd have one last go at tweaking. The first stage was to swipe another insulating bush from a spare donor wheel to replace the one I'd reamed away. I also took out some of the sideplay in the axle furthest away from the motor support with a washer. Both axles were knurled in the centre to get a better grip on the worm by pressing and rolling with a file. After taking out the slop in the axle I added some to the gear meshing shifting the motor up a fraction in its mount. I was utterly gobsmacked when I put it on the track to test. Recalcitrant b@st@rd to complient angel in half an hour.
The upshot is that I've had the smirk of self satisfaction plastered on my face ever since. Partly because the challenge has been overcome, but mainly because Morfa just looks so right with a unit trundling round.
S
Simon Dunkley
Guest
Morfa - Victory from the jaws of defeat.
A useful tip I have picked up about gear meshing is to insert a piece of cigarette paper between worm and wheel when setting up. Guarantees just enough clearance.
Any chance of another inspirational video, this time with the 103 going round the layout?
A useful tip I have picked up about gear meshing is to insert a piece of cigarette paper between worm and wheel when setting up. Guarantees just enough clearance.
Any chance of another inspirational video, this time with the 103 going round the layout?
Geoff
Western Thunderer
Morfa - Victory from the jaws of defeat.
Hi Neil,
A simple way of converting your DMU to EM would be to use shouldered axles from the EMGS. For my 121 I found that the 2.5mm / 2.0 mm worked a treat, the fit of the old gear wheel onto the replacement axle was spot on. New wheels from Gibson and a couple of spacing washers completed the job. You can also get 9/64" / 2.0mm and 1/8th" / 2.0mm axles for other conversions.
Nice pic. by the way.
Geoff
Hi Neil,
A simple way of converting your DMU to EM would be to use shouldered axles from the EMGS. For my 121 I found that the 2.5mm / 2.0 mm worked a treat, the fit of the old gear wheel onto the replacement axle was spot on. New wheels from Gibson and a couple of spacing washers completed the job. You can also get 9/64" / 2.0mm and 1/8th" / 2.0mm axles for other conversions.
Nice pic. by the way.
Geoff
Phill Dyson
Western Thunderer
Morfa - Victory from the jaws of defeat.
Quote from: Neil on October 08, 2011, 10:52:01 AM
Morfa just looks so right with a unit trundling round.
8) 8) 8)
Quote from: Neil on October 08, 2011, 10:52:01 AM
Morfa just looks so right with a unit trundling round.
As does that lovely sweeping curvePugsley said:
8) 8) 8)