Michael's Werkbank (Bavarian PT2/3)

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Michael,

Whilst the red circle that you have marked is not dimensioned there is the required radius given to the equivalent "circle" in the lower half of the drawing.
 

Boyblunder

Western Thunderer
Michael, thanks for sharing your model which is a great idea. I don't need this part at the moment but downloaded it anyway to have a look. Am I correct in thinking if I open it into the slicing software (Chitubox/Lychee etc.) and simply scale it down to 2.23% it produces the correct size print? I have tried it in Lychee and it looks right.
 

michael080

Western Thunderer
Am I correct in thinking if I open it into the slicing software (Chitubox/Lychee etc.) and simply scale it down to 2.23% it produces the correct size print? I have tried it in Lychee and it looks right.

That's the idea and that is how I do it with my formlabs printer that comes with its own slicer. You can set it to 2.23% for 7mm or 1.149% for H0 or to 3.125% for 10mm.

I have modifies the blocks to match 7mm Slaters wheels. If anybody wants to modify them, I can provide native Solidworks SLDPRT files or STEP or IGS versions.

EDIT: I have moved the attachments to the "resources" and removed them here.


Michael
 
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michael080

Western Thunderer
My finney7 gear boxes didn't arrive. This is really FUBAR. the parcel has been dispatched Dec. 1st and didn't show up yet. Tracking is unbelievable. It appeared at a sorting center close by 3 weeks ago and sat there for a week. Now it moved to another mysterious place called "ZB29-99 "and nothing happens.
Orders from China arrive timely in three weeks, sending a parcel from the UK to Germany seems to be impossible.

Anyway, I used the time to finish my MMP roadstone kit.

DSC06875_cr_sml.jpg


The quality of this kit is superior and I am quite happy with the result. The 3D-printed brake blocks look pretty good and they mininze the risk of any shorting.

DSC06870_cr_sml.jpg

I printed the blocks with the prototypical claw around the wheel flange what keeps them nicely in place even with minimum distance between them and the wheel. Sadly, the axleboxes suffered a bit in the ultrasonic bath. The sheet rope hooks are also 3-d printed, but they are so flimsy that I will mount them after painting. Painting will not happen as long as the weather is cold and wet.


So...

I can wait for the finney7 package and nothing will happen or I can start another project in between and they will arrive next week.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Orders from China arrive timely in three weeks, sending a parcel from the UK to Germany seems to be impossible.
It's the same the other way I'm afraid, one parcel from Germany arrived in five days, the second has been sat in UK customs for 15 days, I wouldn't mind if it was just something cheap and expendable, it's not, it's a (expensive) limited run Union Pacific OMI brass model.

Right now Euro postal in and out is a bit of a lottery.
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
It's not just international postage that's a bit of a lottery.
I ordered some parts for the Princess Backhead from Ragstone on 1st December, Andy advised that they had been posted between 7th and 19th of December, they still haven't arrived...
 

michael080

Western Thunderer
If I imagine the mountain of parcels that piles up in 8 weeks and assume that mine is somewhere at the base of this mountain, I feel a bit desperate :oops:

I talked to a colleague from the UK and he told me that he sends everything by DHL. Anybody any experience with this carrier for international shipping?
 

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
We sent a Christmas card to someone in Bristol on 13th December last year. It arrived last Friday.....

I used couriers for sending parcels over Christmas rather than the Royal Mail. Even John Lewis are now using Evri/Hermes. I'll guess that the effect of many people doing the same will have a significant effect on Royal Mail finances. Wait for the redundancies further down the road....

Brian
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
If I imagine the mountain of parcels that piles up in 8 weeks and assume that mine is somewhere at the base of this mountain, I feel a bit desperate :oops:

I talked to a colleague from the UK and he told me that he sends everything by DHL. Anybody any experience with this carrier for international shipping?
DHL is okay but often it's not a door to door service. More frequently it'll be DHL across countries and then the local provider at that country.

My parcel was DHL in Germany and to the UK customs centre, then it became Royal Mail and that's where the hold up is.

UPS on the other hand is door to door, they (on the whole) deliver as fast as they can, they pay the customs charge for you and then bill you a week or so later.

Not sure how DHL outbound works mind.

I pretty much use UPS all the time now, drop off at the local store which is open 07:00 to 11:00 and so far all have arrived within three days. You pay a bit more but if it's something important, can't be beaten in my experience. There will of course be others who have had problems, respect that, but not had any with UPS to date, oh and quite importantly, they do insure toy trains, Royal Mail and Parcel Force do not.
 

adrian

Flying Squad
There will of course be others who have had problems, respect that, but not had any with UPS to date, oh and quite importantly, they do insure toy trains, Royal Mail and Parcel Force do not.
When making up MERG kits for the kit locker the elves always returned kit packs by Royal Mail special delivery guaranteed by 1am not because because speed of delivery was required but it included compensation of £500 by default but up to £2500 (for a couple of quid more) if required.
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Hi Michael

I'm sorry I hadn't paid any attention to your thread as given the hint of German in the title I assumed it was something German or European, then what a delight to find you are building an MMP class 40. I built one of these about 10 years ago, I think I put a thread of it on here at the time. I have to say that I found the kit a significant challenge to my model building skills, especially the roof. I also decide to cheat and I bought a pair of cab ends from JLTRT and stuck those on the brass body. Don't get me wrong, there is nothing bad about the kit, it just requires a level of metal forming skills that I did not have back them, and I still don't have them now. Some people do as I have seen a couple of models on the exhibition circuit which were just fantastic and put my effort to shame.
But here are a few photos of mine.

You can see that I didn't get the curve correct in the edge of the roof it is more bent than curved

20230201_105712.jpg

I used my own design of inner chassis that has full 3 beam compensation, so you can power 3 axles which all carry weight, and you get a decent amount of weight on the pony wheelset so it does stay on the track

20230201_105955_HDR.jpg

The roof is a bit all over the place

20230201_105744.jpg



20230201_105925.jpg


I would recommend getting a copy of Diesels in Depth Class 40s, if you haven't already got a copy, copies appear to be readily available at a reasonable price.

Richard
 

michael080

Western Thunderer
Richard, thanks for the informative pictures of your model. I have to admit that the roof is a bit scary and I push that aside to the future. I am planning to build the "Option A" version with a Mashima motor mounted horizontally between the bogie axes. I have the "Diesels in Depth Class40" book. It is a very valuable source of detail information. I wouldn't be able to build the kit without.

The F7 gear boxes finally arrived Friday last week after a 65 day journey. 19th century post service would have been faster. I will post a couple of pictures of the motorized bogies in a couple of days.

Michael
 

michael080

Western Thunderer
I had some time and designed RCH-buffer guides in three versions as shown in the RCH-drawing No.1021


All of them can be found in the "Resources" section. I have put the native Solidworks-files, STEP-files and STL-files into zip-files.

Again, please be aware that the files are in prototypical size. They need to be scaled down to the desired scale.


Bufferguide Var1 RCH1021_cr.jpg


Bufferguide Var1A RCH1021_cr.jpg

Bufferguide Var1B RCH1021_cr.jpg

Michael
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
Good news (eventually) on the arrival of the F7 gearboxes. You'll enjoy building them. I have no connection other than a satisfied customer.
 

michael080

Western Thunderer
thanks Dave,
watching these parcel tracking sites is a bit like reading a detective story. The parcel pops up in Niederaula, then sits there for two weeks and when you start thinking that they lost it, it magically appears in Köngen, only to sit there for another 10 days. Imagine my surprise when it appeared at a place called ZB29-99. Btw., it is still listed in ZB29-99, even if the first gear boxes found its way into the Class40 bogie.

IMG_20230210_184840_cr_sml.jpg

It runs very smoothly. Right now, I am preparing the second unit.

I know, the worm screws are too long, but this helps holding them with tweezers while threading them into position.
The axle journal have to be shortened to mount the outer bogie parts. That will be no fun considering the plastic isolators.

Michael
 

simond

Western Thunderer
many years ago I ordered a machine from a supplier in Portugal to be delivered in Poland. I was surprised that the supplier opted to make it in Brazil, at a subsidiary. I was even more surprised to learn that it had been mislaid in transport (it was the size of a large domestic refrigerator) and was finally found, in Tokyo.
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
.....the first gear boxes found its way into the Class40 bogie.

Does the motor sit wholly within the drive truck as it appears to do so from the photo?

With a bit of scrap etch (if there is a piece large enough) you could make a pseudo keeper plate or gearbox covers for the underside of the truck to prevent track dirt and dust getting into the gearboxes.

For cutting the excess outer axle length I would be inclined to remove the wheels and cut the excess off on the insulated side with a piercing or jewellers saw. This would not generate as much heat as a rotary disc cutter and less chance of destroying the insulating Bush.

As you say tracking parcels is a detective story. At least when I order Roco HO spares (although via thier .cc website) they actually originate in Detmold then FedEx Detmold, Stanstead airport, FedEX Dartford clearing centre then to my local depot in the North of England. Actial shipping is usually around 3 to 5 days but it takes Roco 10 days to process the order.
 

michael080

Western Thunderer
Ok, second bogie ready.

IMG_20230212_204630_cr_sml.jpg

The motor protudes a bit from the bogie body. That is no problem, because the loco body has a pretty large hole at that position. I like the idea to protect the gear box from dirt.
Cutting the axes was surprisingly easy with a jigsaw. That steel axes seemed to be softer than the brass rods I had to cut.

Now I need to see how high the body rides on the bogies and I need to figure out how to isolate sideframes including buffer beam from the central bogie. The idea is to pick up electricity from both bogies that are isolated on opposite sides.

Michael
 
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