7mm Martin Finney 7mm LSWR M7

7mmMick

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Scale7JB said:
Give it a couple of years and hopefully I'll be able to churn some decent stuff out again!

JB.
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I'm sure you will pal, get the little one off to school and you'll be amazed how much free time you have again.

Steph Dale said:
Mick,

Have you deliberately not fitted the additional pivot to the rear bogie (part 53) or is it an oversight? In my experience with the one I built in P4 it does help. One other thing is the side-control springs; there should be some spring steel wire in the kit which works well and it appears you're using something else? Although Martin doesn't say so, I wouldn't solder it in place either, just leave it long and splay out the ends; it gives more flexibility.

Steph
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oldravendale said:
Additional pivot - I agree. The Adams Radial works very well using the MF system.

Side control springs: yes, there should be material in the kit and Martin's advice is to fix one end only and leave the other free. I can vouch for that system working well too!

Brian
Click to expand...

I had deliberately not fitted the additional pivot, my thinking being that it wouldn't be needed in S7? If you guys recommend the alternative pivot though i'll get it fitted. How does it work? I take it the bogie pivots from the front, allowing a tighter radius to be negotiated?

I'll dig out the spring wire and get in fitted, knew I had seen some somewhere:headbang::))

Thank's for the heads up prior to painting:thumbs:

Mick
 
Steph Dale

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Mick,

The simple way of checking how it works and which of the (effectively three) pivot points you prefer is just to try it. Get the spring in place and push the loco up and down a length of trackwork. Swap to the next pivot point and try again. You could even solder it and see.

My guess is that you'll end up using one of the two on the extra bracket - mine is on the one over the axle and works well with the tapered rear frame in P4.

Steph
 
oldravendale

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
Agree with Steph on that one, although as my Adams Radial is built to Finescale I can't make any direct comparisons. However, using the pivot has made the Radial one of the smoothest locos in my collection.

Brian
 
7mmMick

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Steph,

Did you have to take some metal off the back of the balance pipes ? With the S7 wheels it looks tight ?

Mick
 
Steph Dale

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
I don't recall having to do that no, but the additional pivot point(s) work to restrict sideplay in this area.

I do recall having to trim a little of the bogie frame to clear the brake cross-shaft though. Have you found any need to do that?

Steph
 
7mmMick

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Yes, I've taken about 2mm off as without the bogie frame rode on it and wouldn't sit square. I'll get that pivot fitted and have another look at the balance pipes,

Cheer. Mick
 
7mmMick

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Taking Steph and Brian's advice I've added the forward pivot to the bogie and added some spring steel wire;
DSCF3941.jpg
On trailing this pivot it's works extremely well as described. I'm not sure why it's listed as an option in the kit as to be honest it seems like it's essential now seeing it fitted and working?

With the frames now finished ( apart from Motor/gearbox and pickups ) I cracked on with the detailing of the body. My last post on the body was the adding of the tank/cabside/bunker assemblies. These were both fitted and were straight forward. The instructions then really just say to fit the castings. The only really fiddling thing left to do after this was the beached. The fire hole doors is five separate etched parts, putting it together meant some burnt fingers but it certainly looks the part. None of these parts are fitted in place yet as it will assist painting;
DSCF3940.jpg
 
7mmMick

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Finally for now, some shots of the finished article. One of the bogie axles is away for minor fettling so not fitted here, just try and imagine it fitted:D The condensing pipes, boiler feeds, handrails, whistle and safety valves are all just sat in place and will be fully fitted once painted. Likewise the rear vacuum pipe and footplate lamp irons are not fitted as this would make the bunker lining a real pain in the backside and duplex pump pipework is yet to fit as this is bare copper
DSCF3944.jpg DSCF3953.jpgDSCF3947.jpg
DSCF3968.jpg
DSCF3966.jpg
DSCF3963.jpg
Now off to Warren for paint:thumbs:
 
Dan Randall

Dan Randall

Western Thunderer
Nice, tidy work Mick. :thumbs:

Looks like you've been taking lessons at the "Mickoo School of Soldering" to me - I spent about 90 minutes and used almost two glass fibre refills cleaning-up after soldering the rainstrip around the edge of my "Castle" roof the other evening...:oops:


Regards

Dan
 
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Your so kind :cool: But he's far better at it than I and the Jedi master is surely Richard. Maybe it's the solder you're using, I've gone over to almost all 145 these days.

MD
 
S

S7BcSR

Western Thunderer
Just catching up on this thread and I must say you have done a superb job Mick.

Coming back to the bogie I found that on my model (also S7) I did not need the pivot, I did not need to take anything off the brake shaft (there was about 1 mil up and down movement when the loco stood balanced on the track) and I used brass wire for the side springing not the steel wire as I found that too stiff at the time I was doing it. I have never had a running problem with the bogie apart from when the wheels touch the frames as I forgot to angle in the rear of the frames when building the chassis, a problem which was cured by a smear of araldite on the frames before painting. Currently the loco stands as a 0-2-0-4T as the motor failed and I haven't yet replaced it.

Rob T
 
7mmMick

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Thanks for the kind comments everyone. I have thoroughly enjoyed building the kit and look forward to the next one. At some point JB it will be a V2 i'm sure, I always been wanted a Finney V2:thumbs:

Mick
 
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