Crane Locomotives

spikey faz

Western Thunderer
This is coming out very nicely. Regarding the taper on the chimney. All LNWR chimney caps were the same, as were the bases, so the taper varied depending on the length ... and your crane tank has quite a long one, so I wouldn't worry too much about it.

Mike
That's good to hear. :thumbs:

Mike
 

spikey faz

Western Thunderer
The instructions that come with the kit advise that if using Slaters driving wheels, there are two options. Either 4ft 3inch diameter with 12 x 'H' section spokes (7851H) (wrong number of spokes) or 4ft 0inch diameter with 10 x 'H' section spokes (7848H) (correct number of spokes, but incorrect diameter).

The previous owner of my kit had provided a set of the smaller diameter drivers, so this is what I'm using along with a set of 3ft 9inch diameter carrying wheels (7845H).

A consequence of using the smaller diameter drivers means that the carrying wheels are very close to the underside of the footplate. The instructions advise against making cutouts in the footplate to accommodate the wheels, so naturally I ignored this good advice. :eek: 20260528_142104.jpg

The kit provides a set of brakes, but it appears these were superceded by a later design, which I have chosen to model. Laurie came up with some parts which I reckon will do the job. 20260528_142128.jpg

I've had to re-drill the mounting holes for the brake hangers to get everything to line up.20260528_141154.jpg

Mike
 

spikey faz

Western Thunderer
A trial fitting of the brake pull rods indicates no issues with clearance or alignment. 20260531_084917.jpgThe early (wooden?) brakes had pull rods both sides of the wheels. It's not entirely clear from the pictures I've seen whether the double pull rods were retained with the later brakes. I could possibly double 'em up, but I'll need a larger than scale gap between the rods to allow for the extra sideways wheel movement I've got, to allow this locomotive to navigate the curves on Findon Junction.

Mike
 
Last edited:

Mike W

Western Thunderer
The preserved Ramsbottom saddle tank should tell you the answer about double pullrods. I can't lay my hands on a picture but suspect they were double (why would the material of the block change the dynamics?). However, as you say, out of scale wheel widths, out of scale sideplay and out of scale clearance (don't want to scrape the paint off the wheels) means they might end up double the distance apart that they should be, so .... ?

Mike
 

Dave Holt

Western Thunderer
How about a thin layer of insulating material on the inside of the pull rods. That way an occasional tough wouldn't cause a short and would allow clearances to be a minimum?
On a P4 Jubilee, I lined the inside of the splashers with cigarette paper attached with cyno glue.
Dave.
 

spikey faz

Western Thunderer
How about a thin layer of insulating material on the inside of the pull rods. That way an occasional tough wouldn't cause a short and would allow clearances to be a minimum?
On a P4 Jubilee, I lined the inside of the splashers with cigarette paper attached with cyno glue.
Dave.
I'm going to put the other pull rods on to see how it looks. My gut feeling is it should have two each side, even if they are a bit further apart.

Mike
 
Top