Brushs Laser Cutting and 3d Printing workbench
- Thread starter BrushType4
- Start date
BrushType4
Western Thunderer
It’s a bit chunky but u was thinking that it would be passable. Maybe not.
adrian
Flying Squad
What about a little laser cut MDF jig and a length of 1mm brass wire? The jig could have a cutout so the user can cut the rungs to the same length, then the jig could hold a couple of length of 1x2 mm brass strip the required distance apart and hold the brass wire rungs in the correct spacing while the user glues or solders it all together. Minimal cost and no etching.
BrushType4
Western Thunderer
This week on the workbench we’ve a bigger project.
Can you guess where?
Can you guess where?
smgee
Western Thunderer
Looks rather a lot like that there Swindon works.
Giles
Western Thunderer
I've just tried cutting these (in 4mm) in tin plate 0.008" on the fibre laser, and I'm delighted to say the treads came out very well, although with more dross on the face than I would like. I'm awaiting some anti-spatter spray, and of course the other option is putting them in a jewellers tumbling machine. The ones shown I cleaned up by hand by rubbing on 600 wet and dry, which works fine, but is tedious.
BrushType4
Western Thunderer
Not sure where the last few weeks have gone but we’ve been busy.
A little maintenance shed end (only 50mm deep) on the workbench today. I think this is still in use at Immingham as a wagon repair works.
I’ve used single faced corrugated card for the door with some yellow acrylic paint. I’ll add the black paint tomorrow if it’s dry. It’s cold in the workshop so it might not be!
I’ve also built up another LMS/LNWR shed. I’ll have this with me at Kettering if anyone wants a closer look. We’ve got a 6 road version coming soon for a YouTube modeller.
A little maintenance shed end (only 50mm deep) on the workbench today. I think this is still in use at Immingham as a wagon repair works.
I’ve used single faced corrugated card for the door with some yellow acrylic paint. I’ll add the black paint tomorrow if it’s dry. It’s cold in the workshop so it might not be!
I’ve also built up another LMS/LNWR shed. I’ll have this with me at Kettering if anyone wants a closer look. We’ve got a 6 road version coming soon for a YouTube modeller.
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BrushType4
Western Thunderer
Our website has been a little bit rubbish to be honest so I’ve updated it.
The new site is fully secure and working. Give it a look and let me know your thoughts.
www.intentio.co.uk
There are a couple of links still to be populated and some content to be added as well as the full product list but please do let me know if you see something off or not as you’d expect.
The new site is fully secure and working. Give it a look and let me know your thoughts.
www.intentio.co.uk
There are a couple of links still to be populated and some content to be added as well as the full product list but please do let me know if you see something off or not as you’d expect.
BrushType4
Western Thunderer
Mrs Intentio has also told me!Hi Phil,
site looks good, consistent image, easy to navigate.
There’s a castrated ram on the “about us“ page but I suspect it’s a spelling mistake
hth
Simon
John57sharp
Western Thunderer
On this page, OO Gauge Coal Yard Office – Laser Cut Model Railway Kit – Intentio the item is titled as a Coal Yard Office.
Like the look though.
John
Like the look though.
John
3 LINK
Western Thunderer
Hi Phil,
The new site is a vast improvement to the original. With the old site I was always worried I was about to be redirected to something undesirable like “ Debbie does Dallas “ or something similar. Not that I ever visit such places..
Martyn.
BrushType4
Western Thunderer
We make sleepers and have always used ply. This has been a little troublesome as different suppliers of ply sometime have differing tolerances and quality so 3mm sleepers could be 2.9 to 3.2 think which if you’ve ever tried to lay hand built track is a PITA as the chairs will pop off the low sleepers. I mainly get around this by only using one supplier and large batches of board to minimise the variation.
Cutting templot plans from ply is also a bit tricky as the larger boards are not as flat as one would like…
MDF has always been frowned upon by the track layers but anyway I’m experimenting with black MDF. Pictured below some engraved sleepers to represent old ones.
There is a slight grain on the MDF but it’s minimal. So WT’ers can I persuade the old track laying hands and continue with or stay old skool with ply?
Cutting templot plans from ply is also a bit tricky as the larger boards are not as flat as one would like…
MDF has always been frowned upon by the track layers but anyway I’m experimenting with black MDF. Pictured below some engraved sleepers to represent old ones.
There is a slight grain on the MDF but it’s minimal. So WT’ers can I persuade the old track laying hands and continue with or stay old skool with ply?
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I think the main reason for this is that some grades of MDF react very badly to some PVA adhesives causing a very significant swelling. I suspect that water-resistant grades (the green stuff) and "modified" PVAs (so called 'Aliphatic Resins') would get round this problem, but we need someone to do some proper research and publish a definitive outcome. Because we only do our track laying once/twice/a few times per life-time, many people need to know they are using a "proven technique".
Hope that helps...
[Edited for Spillinh mistooks]
BrushType4
Western Thunderer
BrushType4
Western Thunderer
I’ve never used mdf that’s reacted to PVA but could imagine a scenario where flooding pva water mix to fix the ballast might cause issues with some mdf. This black mdf isn’t mdf in the sense of fluffy when cut. It’s like plastic. I’d go almost as far to say it’s waterproof but don’t quote me.
So we need a volunteer to build some track then…
It should come with some kind of specification which would say how waterproof it is. One issue with track is that it is difficult to be sure that issues will not emerge years after first construction. From problems which others have had (for example using PVA to glue underlay to MDF baseboards) problems emerged fairly quickly (months not years) so some experimentation should at least rule out that kind of issue.
Why not chuck some in a bucket of water, or drop some PVA on the surface to see if there is any reaction? To be "scientific", you even could do the same with some common or garden MDF to compare ourcomes. That might go a long way to assuage concerns.
I for one certainly hope it works: I fully agree that ply - even good stuff - is not what it once was ... ... To a chorus of tut-tutting, I built my baseboards from MDF and they are still fine 12 year later BUT I took precautions against the issues I knew about!!
BrushType4
Western Thunderer
There is a sleeper sitting in a jug of water as I write. I’ll retrieve it when I get back to the workshops in the morning let you see the results.
100% our regular mdf is not water resistant along the cut edge. Different grades are better than others but I wouldn’t bother with a submerge overnight test as it will degrade.