Bradstock Loco

Alan

Western Thunderer
The actual number plate just pings off, bu you are left with the surround in which you put the new plate. It might need some filing to make it fit.
 

Quintus

Western Thunderer
As Alan says, inserting a scalpel blade between surround and numberplate and twisting should ping it off.
However!
I ordered new plates from Light railway stores, and asked for the "Dapol" size, which is a bit smaller to fit within the surround.
I have used these for the 14XX and they are a nice close fit within the moulded surround.
The pannier surround seems slightly larger, and there is a slight gap, as can be seen in this photo.
I have now ordered "standard" sized plates, which hopefully will be a better fit.DSC_6476 (1280x718).jpg
 

Quintus

Western Thunderer
A shot of half of the layout prior to dismantling today in preparation for the trip to SWAG next Sunday. The baseboard join can just be seen at the bottom right track joint.
The photo unfortunately includes part of my rather untidy work space, if space is an appropriate word, as there is very little of that on the bench.
20260224_104826.jpg
 

Quintus

Western Thunderer
With most of the steam locos and coal wagons safely boxed up, Bradstock Loco is looking a little deserted.
D3747 now has open season to roam the layout, and is seen here on the coal road.
The loco is from a MOK kit.
The coalies seem to be keeping busy however, no doubt in anticipation of a busy day on Sunday!DSC_6565 (1280x715)~3.jpg
 

Quintus

Western Thunderer
Latest happenings at Bradstock concern my Collett 2251 class, which is being fitted for sound. I've not bought a sound decoder yet, but it's now just about "DCC ready".
The majority of the work is in the tender. Originally I built the loco to pick up via the American system, but now I have two tenders for this loco, the original Collett 3000 gallon, with wheels uninsulated on one side, and a 3500 gallon Churchward tender, which I built later, and had insulated wheels with pick ups on one side only.
I have fitted extra pick ups on the Churchward tender along with all the gubbins required (the white wires will go to the speaker)
My cunning plan now is that should I wish to run the loco on DC, I just swap the tenders.
OK, I know most decoders will now run on DC, but not to my satisfaction.
Here's a photo of the tender chassis.
20260503_161904.jpg
 

Quintus

Western Thunderer
I now have completed the tender mods on the Churchward 3500 tender, which is now ready to plug in a sound decoder (when I decide which one). It is still DC at the moment as I have fitted a blanking plug.
DSC_6574 (1280x718).jpg

The Collett 3000g tender is purely for DC operation and when coupled to the loco uses the American system
DSC_6578 (1280x719).jpg
These locos ran with quite a few different tenders, I think I prefer the Churchward one.
 

Quintus

Western Thunderer
For some time now I have been experimenting as to how to replicate that oily sheen patina that a loco that displays when it has had some attention from the cleaners (or more likely some keen enthusiasts).
The results using "Metasheen"metallic floor polish/sealer have been encouraging, a container of which was discovered on a shelf in the garage, left over from tiling our conservatory some years ago.
So far the auto fitted pannier has had the treatment, the fluid was simply brushed on with a small flattie brush, it seems to dry quite quickly, and I think it gives a nice deep oily look to this weathered loco. Of course, only the side tanks, cab side sheets and bunker sides were treated.
DSC_6602 (1280x720).jpgDSC_6590 (1280x835).jpg
 
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simond

Western Thunderer
Mike,

there was a recent discussion on RMW about using a microscopic amount of oil, applied with a cotton bud, to achieve a “polished with an oily rag” appearance.

Whilst the description and photos were encouraging, I have not yet been brave enough…

best
Simon
 

Quintus

Western Thunderer
Mike,

there was a recent discussion on RMW about using a microscopic amount of oil, applied with a cotton bud, to achieve a “polished with an oily rag” appearance.

Whilst the description and photos were encouraging, I have not yet been brave enough…

best
Simon
Hi Simon,
I've not found that particular thread, although the idea had crossed my mind.
I think maybe the oil may attract dust and be a little too mobile (if you see what I mean), so I think I will go along with the floor sealer for now, which seems to give the desired effect (for me, at least).
It seems to give the green a nice deep lustre whilst the previous weathering has toned down the lining.
It seems a little back to front, as usual practice is to finish the loco as pristine and then do the weathering.
Cheers
Mike
 

simond

Western Thunderer
Hi Simon,
I've not found that particular thread, although the idea had crossed my mind.
I think maybe the oil may attract dust and be a little too mobile (if you see what I mean), so I think I will go along with the floor sealer for now, which seems to give the desired effect (for me, at least).
It seems to give the green a nice deep lustre whilst the previous weathering has toned down the lining.
It seems a little back to front, as usual practice is to finish the loco as pristine and then do the weathering.
Cheers
Mike
Hi Mike,

try here. https://www.rmweb.co.uk/blogs/entry/27275-27-shine-on-you-crazy-diamond/page/2/#findComment-83195

atb
Simon
 

Flaxfield

Western Thunderer
I did comment on an associated thread where the method was used on a Dapol 517.

I think it's a huge mistake to apply oil to a model loco to replicate the attentions of a cleaner. No matter how little is used, it will inevitably find it's way where you least want it. It will certainly get beneath weathering and ruin the finish.

There are other ways to replicate a cleaned loco. I have previously used Autoglym car polish using a small amount on a cotton bud. It gives a nice balanced shine, deepening the colour beneath.

I can't find any photos of locos but here are a couple of coaches so treated.


20180115_203553.jpg


20181113_213440.jpg

Rob
 

Quintus

Western Thunderer
Interesting threads, it seems we are aiming for the same effect, but, of course, there is always more than one way to crack a nut.
 

Quintus

Western Thunderer
That is very effective, and I suppose replicates the real thing, coal dust and oil being being a high percentage of the film that built up, especially on the horizontal surface of the running plate. Oil didn't seem to do the paint job much harm on the real thing either.
However, a mixture of coal dust and oil is probably not the best for preserving paint finishes on models, and I would be reluctant to try it on my locos, especially the etched brass ones, where a major task would ensue in the event of the paint lifting.
I think a very similar effect could be created using more conventional means.
 
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