Amanda's Workshop: Scratchbuilding Toward A Layout

WM183

Western Thunderer
Hi folks.

Well, I've settled in here, had a good look around, and I rather like it. I think it's time I tried to contribute, and to that end, welcome to my workbench thread. This is a great format for me, as I tend to wibble and wobble from project to project. I am a builder first, and an operator a distant second. For me, the research that goes into building a model, and then solving the actual construction puzzles the build presents, are nectar and ambrosia. Whether I am building a US or British model, however, I always start the same way: with researching the prototype. For reasons of economy and simple enjoyment, scratchbuilding, err... scratches my itch. Ahem.

For British prototype modelers this is (usually) straightforward. We are spoiled with a library of amazing reference material for virtually all goods stock, and for most passenger stock and locomotives. LMS and Midland modelers in particular could scarcely ask for more, so great is the library of reference at our disposal! Things are only slightly behind for the GWR, and further behind yet for the LNER, SR, and many pre-grouping companies. However...

If you model American stock, you're in for a ride. Aside from a very few roads that have a solid library behind them - Southern Pacific and the other Harriman lines, and Chesapeake & Ohio chief among them - you're gonna have to do some digging. Even large roads like New York Central or Pennsylvania have very little ready printed reference of actual use to the scratchbuilder. Much of what does exist are diagram books that have collections of long, skinny equipment diagrams that are nearly but not completely useless for our purposes. They often come in little paperback books, sold at train shows and through historical societies, and are full of images that look like this:

e6izfuY.png

This does give us some useful information; many exterior measurements and some data about the engine are provided. If you're modeling something very obscure, this may be all that you get. You can build a model with nothing more than this and a few good photographs of your subject. However, you can also dig a well with a teaspoon; possible doesn't mean efficient. You'll have to fill in a lot of the blanks on your own. The fortunate bit is, if your subject is this obscure, and no other printed material about it exists... who's going to say you're wrong?

Next up we have elevation drawings. These can often be found in better books on the topic at hand, or by searching through internet archives like Hathi Trust for old railroad and engineering journals. These old journals are your BEST source for this sort of model-making, particularly if you model things that are over 100 years old... why 100 years, Amanda? Because that is when printed material goes firmly into the realm of free use. Elevation drawings often include sections and a nice side view of the subject, and look like this:

pQ7I6V3.jpg

They contain only a bit more dimensional information than the equipment diagram above, but they're clearer and show more of it. For most of us, this is as good as it gets. You can work from this; by combining the above 2 types of drawings, good photos, and a bit of experience, you can do it. You may also be able to find drawings like this for a locomotive similar to, but not identical to, whatever you're building; in the early 1900s for example ALCO built literally thousands of heavy 2-8-0 engines. If you model say the Big Four, and cannot find a drawing for one of their engines, but can find another one made for say, Illinois Central, you can usually make the assumption the two will only really differ much in a few cosmetic areas...

...unless you model the Pennsylvania. Ahem.

Lastly are real honest to goodness engineering drawings. These are drawn to feature in technical journals, as well as to show the final draughting department how to create the prints that will be use by shop workers to build the system or part. They are usually full of dimensional information and are extremely accurate; I would not scale off the previous drawings unless I absolutely had no choice. I'd scale off one of these if a dimension wasn't marked - which is pretty rare. These are usually for individual systems or parts, like this frame and saddle drawing for the Pennsylvania H6b shown above. (Yeah, the frame drawing is for an H6... we know the dimensional differences that matter. The frames are the same.)

HKErq2F.jpg

These are bread and butter. If you can find these - and you probably can find SOME - you're golden. You can, and absolutely should, build from these. These also can be found for British prototypes, namely in more technical books on subjects a few people devoted most of their lives to. We're in their debt.

Of course, we have to make the above drawings into something that makes sense to us, right? Something we can cut out of metal or styrene or card? Stay tuned for part 2, when we will convert the frame drawing to a scale drawing, and then to some actual metal to cut.

Note that the frame and saddle GA was too big for me to attach, hence why it's linked from Imgur. Do note I have converted most of these to PNG and reduced their size so they will fit. As obtained from online sources - chiefly Hathi Trust - the images are quite big, and plenty clear to read all data and dimensions.
 

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Lyndhurstman

Western Thunderer
Excellent stuff. Welcome, and thank you. I look forward to further route knowledge transfer. And I agree; we owe so much to those who gave illumination to the paths that we now tread.

Cheers

Jan
 

WM183

Western Thunderer
I suppose I left a few things out of my first post. Whoops.

I model in 0 gauge; whether in 7mm for British stuff, or in 1:48 for US stuff. This H6b "Consolidation" of the Pennsylvania Railroad will be US, of course, so it's gonna be in 1:48. I chose this prototype for a number of reasons. The PRR's engines were much "cleaner" than most US roads, with that Belpaire firebox and lack of "stuff" hanging all over them giving them a decidedly British appearance. Secondly, if you notice, there are no terribly difficult compound curves or fiddly stuff like feedwater heaters, excess air pumps, or the like. Even the frames are perfectly straight on one edge! Third, Pennsylvania had on the order of 1300 of them, so they were a very common engine; the largest number of any single type built in the US, I believe.

Edit: 1707 across H6, H6a, and H6b.

However, a lot of stuff simply does not exist for scratchbuilding US stuff in any scale, let alone 0 scale. 3d printing will fix a lot of problems for us, and will no doubt be used a lot. The trucks for the tender will be scratchmade and will be much like we make sprung coach bogies for British models; a brass subframe with cosmetic side frames, which will likely have to be 3d printed. Thankfully when we multiply the 56 inch diameter of the prototype drive wheels by the conversion factor of .906 (43.5 / 48) it comes out to 50.75 inches, or just shy of 4' 3", in 7mm scale. Slater's makes wheels this size... and they even have the right no of spokes at 14. The real wheels had a throw of 14 inches, these are 13.5... certainly close enough for me. There should be enough meatymeat on the wheels to allow me to tweak the flanges if needed though I shouldn't need to.

The frames and all bracing and brackets will be nickel silver, as will the cab and all the valve gear. The boiler will likely be... something. I may just build it in styrene. Styrene is fine for scratchbuilds, and I love to use it when I can. The wheels will ride in Slater's hornblocks - don't fix what isn't broke, after all - and we will compensate the engine.

I should have a drawing by Monday for the frames and rods.
 
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WM183

Western Thunderer
The frames for this engine are 4 inches thick... that comes out to be about 3/32 of an inch thick, or slightly over 2mm in 1:48 scale. Yeesh. I have .022 thick nickel silver. I suppose I can make overlays of styrene to thicken the frames after all the soldering work is done?
 

Lyndhurstman

Western Thunderer
The frames for this engine are 4 inches thick... that comes out to be about 3/32 of an inch thick, or slightly over 2mm in 1:48 scale. Yeesh. I have .022 thick nickel silver. I suppose I can make overlays of styrene to thicken the frames after all the soldering work is done?
Hello
Your pursuit of scaled dimensions is commendable.

I work in P4, and it is well known for the narrow widths of proprietary chassis to be ‘bulked out’ with styrene side sheets - not quite for the same raison d’etre as Schürzen on Panzers - but these are generally held off the frames with packing pieces. I’m not sure if you have the space to do that. I presume the styrene would have to be reasonably thick (maybe 40 thou..)? My BOAFP math says the packing would be on the region of 0.5 mm.

Cheers

Jan
 

WM183

Western Thunderer
Hi Jan,

I will probably get some 1mm thick brass and cut my frames from that. I can get that locally easy enough. As the frames on US locomotives are quite visible beneath the boiler, having something with some chonkishness is important. As the frames will become rather weedy once I start cutting for hornguides, I will probably just laminate another thin strip of brass on the outside of the frames, at the top, to get to perhaps 1.5mm. I'd like the finished width of the frame to be right around 26.5mm - that way if I ever decide to go Proto 48, with their B2Bs right at about 28mm, I won't have to worry about using a zillion washers. In "2 rail standard" I can use washers behind the slater's wheels easy enough.

I will probably drive the last axle. Ideally I'd drive the third axle, as that's the main axle in the prototype, and the closer the gears are to all the stuff hung off that axle the less lash to deal with, but I'd hate to have too much of the gearbox visible beneath the grates of the firebox.

What would y'all do? Drive the 3rd axle or the rear one?
 

Lyndhurstman

Western Thunderer
Hi Jan,

I will probably get some 1mm thick brass and cut my frames from that. I can get that locally easy enough. As the frames on US locomotives are quite visible beneath the boiler, having something with some chonkishness is important. As the frames will become rather weedy once I start cutting for hornguides, I will probably just laminate another thin strip of brass on the outside of the frames, at the top, to get to perhaps 1.5mm. I'd like the finished width of the frame to be right around 26.5mm - that way if I ever decide to go Proto 48, with their B2Bs right at about 28mm, I won't have to worry about using a zillion washers. In "2 rail standard" I can use washers behind the slater's wheels easy enough.

I will probably drive the last axle. Ideally I'd drive the third axle, as that's the main axle in the prototype, and the closer the gears are to all the stuff hung off that axle the less lash to deal with, but I'd hate to have too much of the gearbox visible beneath the grates of the firebox.

What would y'all do? Drive the 3rd axle or the rear one?
Hello
I’d drive the rear one. The slope of the front of the lower firebox lends itself to an alignment, with the motor sitting in the boiler (although I’m not sure about heat if you’re making the boiler from styrene). I presume the frames are bar - it’s difficult to see from the drawings on my phone, and I’m presuming that there will be a lot of daylight around as a result. There’s always the tender, I suppose.. I’ve just found this on Flickr
Cheers

Jan
 

WM183

Western Thunderer
Hi Jan,
I will probably drive the rear axle, that does seem to be the best way to do it. Then I can flexchas the two first axles, and spring the hornblocks lightly for the main axle. The flexchas arrangement will need to be cleverly done, as you said there's loads of daylight under the boiler and between the frames.
That picture is AMAZING by the way. That helps me a lot!
 

Northroader

Western Thunderer
Long time ago, (“Model Railways”, March 1976) Dennis Allenden, a talented English model builder living in America, whom I greatly admired, wrote an article, “But iron bars a frame...” This described making up the American type bar frames, and I really liked the idea, and gave it a trial. I used 1/8” square brass bar, hacksawing into lengths, dressing up with a file, and soldering together. Where I went wrong, is that the heat from the soldering iron will run along the fabrication, joints coming undone as fast as you make them, so it is essential to drill and pin each joint as it’s made. The big plus is that it does look spot on, and you can start with making coupling rods, set the wheel centres and bushes from those, then jig build the frames around this.
 

simond

Western Thunderer
Alternatively, a couple of bits of 2mm brass, some candle wax, a little elbow grease and a pack of fret saw blades…
 

WM183

Western Thunderer
Hi all.

You know, I've debated trying building up a frame from brass bars, but I feared the desoldering premade joints issue. In this case, I will do as Simon says, and fretsaw the frames out of some 1mm brass. I can add a cosmetic "skin" over that if I really need to.

Speaking of frames... we have a diagram to work from. All measurements are in scale feet and inches except the hornblock cutouts, as those are not a prototype part, of course! I made this to just keep my ducks in a row when I scribe the part to fret it out - I will cut the hornways after fretting the frames from the sheet. I have tentatively drawn one of the openings in the frame at the rear. This is the only place that is very visible on the prototype, so I may fret the frame under the cab to be open, but leave the rest solid. I'll see what I think when I get there.
 

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simond

Western Thunderer
I don’t think I’d scribe anything at first.

I’d suggest printing your frame to scale, any 2D CAD will do that, and then stick the paper print to the brass with something like spray adhesive. Fretsaw & file to the printed lines. Cut your hornways a little bit narrow. Remove paper, scribe them to correct width & centres, and file to your scribed lines.

There might be something to be said for centre popping the frame over each hornway - you can mark the centrelines on your CAD plot, which saves any measurement issues. You might also scribe a horizontal line on the frames for axle centres, again, centre pop through the paper.

I hate marking out…
 

WM183

Western Thunderer
Hi Simon,

I dislike laying my cuts out too. Its part of why I chose a rather simple frame. I'll cut and drill my rods first from a 4 layer sandwich of NS, and then use them as a template to drill my frames. The cutting will happen after. The idea to use a paper cutting mask is clever. I will try that!

Edited for spelling.
 

Phil O

Western Thunderer
I think that I might make up a jig to hold all the pieces in place and then solder them up in one hit. Start from the centre and work out, giving each joint a wipe with a wet sponge, to cool the metal, before moving on. If I was feeling particularly masochistic, I might make half joints and drill and pin, as a belt and braces job. It would depend on how much meat there was in the bar.
 

simond

Western Thunderer
I don’t fancy an assembly. You could do it with an RSU, I guess, but cut from the solid would be my preference.

I have a link to a company that laser cuts steel, someone on here pointed it out, I’ve not had the opportunity to get a job priced up yet but it sounds interesting


I’m planning on getting them to do the valve gear for my Garratt, assuming the price is not ludicrous. I presume a set of bar frames would be child’s play assuming you can generate good 2D CAD. And they could be 2mm thick too.

atb
Simon
 

WM183

Western Thunderer
The laser cutting is amazing, and I'd love to use it for mild steel for the valve gear and rods, but alas, I am on something of a budget. 2mm brass is 30ish euro for a fairly large sheet, which should let me build a couple of engines. The most expensive part by far is just the wheels from Slater's. Once I have a better mill, I hope to be able to build wheels in house!

Amanda
 
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