Resistance Soldering Station (RSS) - Build or Buy?

[WM183]

Hi hi folks.

Since switching to 2mm, I have managed to use my Hakko to build a perfectly presentable engine! However, I would like to go a step further with precision, and that seems to be the realm of an RSS. Mr Henk Oversloot's website shows some amazing modelling done with an RSS in FS160 scale: Resistance Soldering Unit

So... do people recommend buying an RSS, or building one myself? I was a mechanic in a former life, and then a fire alarm installer/technician for 10 years, so I am very comfortable with low and high voltage electrics, but - is it worth it to do? I certainly make no claim to be any kind of electrical engineer. Once we go beyond relatively simple parallel circuits my eyes sort of glaze over.

What have you all done? What did you think of the machine you wound up with?

 

[richard carr]

I bought one many moons ago, after an initial flurry it languishes in my workshop to be rarely used.
There are though times when it really is the best way but I can't remember the last time I used it.

Some people of course love them. I suspect that building one is probably a fair bit cheaper than buying one.

Richard

 

[michael080]

I am a happy user of my self built RSU.

I took a look at the link in your initial mail and there are two points I would like to object:
-- A straight handle just like a soldering iron is easy to build and easy to use. I do not agree that the probe needs to be held perpendicular to the srface. In may cases it is useful to have a lrger contact surface rather than only the tip.
-- tapped transformers or a variac are 1970s technology. Check for a dimmer that can handle the inductive load of a transformer. Much more elgant and probably even echaper.

Where I agree:
Make sure that the cable to your probe are thick and soft. I propose to use finely stranded silicon isolated 4mm² wire. If you are a 2mm builder, 2mm² would be surely enough.

Michael

 

[WM183]

Hi guys,

Richard, what scale do you work in? I have to imagine as your scale goes up, an RSU becomes less useful, but that's just gut feeling and not based on experience. So far my temp controlled hakko has been *ok* but I haven't yet gotten teeny with my parts.

Michael, Thanks for the feedback. I think a straight handle suits me better, as that's what I've used my life so far. I expect its easier to use when making teeny parts even. I uh, know some of those other words! I better do a bit more research I suppose.

Electrically isolated,

Amanda

 

[richard carr]

Hi Amanda

I work in O scale, there are still plenty of teeny parts, have a look at Dave Parkin wagon kit, it's a work of art.

I think part of it is how happy you are using an ordinary iron.

Richard

 

[Eastsidepilot]

I work in 7mm/ ft. scale and wouldn't be without the RSU, it's not used as much as an ordinary iron.
It's like any other tradesman's or woman's tool kit, as a chippy I have a large range of tools in the kit but hardly ever use the pincers, bradawl or hand rip saw but won't be with out them.

Col.

 

[Herb Garden]

I work in 4mm and have a London road models RSU.

It has completely changed how I build models, in a really good way. I'm quicker and get better quality results.

Mainly use it for laminating and adding tinned details. But also for adjustments where localised heat is required.

Basically I love the thing and wouldn't be without it

 

[simond]

I too have a home brew special.

It gets used rarely, but in my opinion, there are some jobs for which there is no better tool.

atb
Simon

 

[DavidB]

Unless you want to spend time building your own, I would suggest the London Road Models unit. I know it is pricey but it is a worthwhile investment. You can also get separate probe and leads from them. The probe does not have to be perpendicular to the work.

Blowing my own trumpet, you might find this YouTube video useful.

 

[WM183]

Unless you want to spend time building your own, I would suggest the London Road Models unit. I know it is pricey but it is a worthwhile investment. You can also get separate probe and leads from them. The probe does not have to be perpendicular to the work.

Blowing my own trumpet, you might find this YouTube video useful.

This is probably in my budget. Thank you! I will watch your video.

Thank you all for the information and input. I think I'll get the London Road one. I am comfortable with my Hakko, but would like to have more arrows in the quiver, so to speak.

Sometimes you need a rip saw. Sometimes you need a crosscut saw. Etc etc.

 

[Pugsley]

Unless you want to spend time building your own, I would suggest the London Road Models unit. I know it is pricey but it is a worthwhile investment. You can also get separate probe and leads from them. The probe does not have to be perpendicular to the work.

Blowing my own trumpet, you might find this YouTube video useful.

I can echo this - I've got one of those and can't fault it. Again, I don't use it that often, but I'm very glad I have it when I do.

 

[Dog Star]

Sometimes you need a rip saw. Sometimes you need a crosscut saw. Etc etc.

Sorry to ask... what solder do you use with a cross cut saw?

 

[Tim Humphreys ex Mudhen]

Graham, it depends upon how fast you are are sawing and how much heat is being generated.

Tim

 

[adrian]

I would like to go a step further with precision, and that seems to be the realm of an RSS

I would beg to differ. A RSS is not required, I've built several 2mmFS kits quite easily with a standard ERSA RDS-80 soldering iron. They are what I call a "marmite tool". You love them or hate them, mine just gathered dust, but just using an RSS doesn't automatically equate to improved soldering. Certainly get one and see how you get on with it, personally there isn't anything the RSS can do that I can't do with the ERSA unit, and plenty the ERSA unit can do that the RSS can't. Henk Oversloot's articles seem to be balanced, sensible and fair on RSS units, unfortunately there are other online articles that are quite frankly ridiculous in lauding RSS units as a "game changer" when they are nothing of the sort.

 

[WM183]

I would beg to differ. A RSS is not required, I've built several 2mmFS kits quite easily with a standard ERSA RDS-80 soldering iron. They are what I call a "marmite tool". You love them or hate them, mine just gathered dust, but just using an RSS doesn't automatically equate to improved soldering. Certainly get one and see how you get on with it, personally there isn't anything the RSS can do that I can't do with the ERSA unit, and plenty the ERSA unit can do that the RSS can't. Henk Oversloot's articles seem to be balanced, sensible and fair on RSS units, unfortunately there are other online articles that are quite frankly ridiculous in lauding RSS units as a "game changer" when they are nothing of the sort.

Hi Adrian

Of curiosity, what does your standard soldering station do that an RSS doesn't?

 

[Matt.S.]

I adopted an RSU on my switch to 2mm.

It's the mutts for laminating and fiddly additions. You do need to think about current return paths and be mindful that you will vapourise little things if the settings are wrong.

I still use an antex for bits like castings, and details - the RSU would need a lot of fiddling to get right for say clasp brake gear.

The other thing to consider is using modern adhesives - I don't solder buffers, vac cylinders or axle boxes. A black super glue suck as loctite 408 is more than suitable and gives you time to tweak without worrying about delaminating things.

 

[adrian]

Hi Adrian

Of curiosity, what does your standard soldering station do that an RSS doesn't?

Principally I found that pulling solder through a joint from the other side, producing a nice sharp smooth fillet along a long joint and tinning and sweating thin panels far easier with the ERSA unit than an RSS. Of course this will spark numerous comments from RSS units with claims they have done just such things with the RSS, however the results in many cases are dubious at best and more a case of a result has been ahieved in-spite of the RSS rather than because of it.

However I will leave with one example - MERG electronic kits - I'd be rather reluctant to be soldering SMT devices and electronic components onto a circuit board with an RSS!

 

[adrian]

It's the mutts for laminating and fiddly additions. You do need to think about current return paths and be mindful that you will vapourise little things if the settings are wrong.

If it helps then yes they are great tools, used appropriately, that said multiple laminations and fiddly additions are still perfectly achievable with a standard iron and I have yet to vaporise anything with a standard iron!

One of the best things I did was sign up for silversmithing evening classes. Learning the skills and techniques of silver-soldering was far more worthwhile than the cost of an RSU - IMHO.

 

[Longbow]

Compared to a soldering iron, an RSU provides more intense heat to a smaller area, which better suits some tasks. And unlike a soldering iron it allows you to use magnets to hold the work in alignment, which I find very useful.

 

[adrian]

Compared to a soldering iron, an RSU provides more intense heat to a smaller area, which better suits some tasks. And unlike a soldering iron it allows you to use magnets to hold the work in alignment, which I find very useful.

Trying desperately to avoid getting into discussion about the pros and cons of RSUs so may move a few posts as the original question was build or buy.

That said an 80W soldering iron is more than capable of providing sufficient heat to a small area just as much as an RSU, I've soldered lamp irons onto a 2mmFS brake van with my ERSA soldering iron - how much smaller do you want to go!

I really must post a separate article at some point when I have time as I find it puzzling and contrary to soldering methods when various online videos and articles keep promoting RSUs with steel baseplates and magnets - Raymond Whalley's articles being one of the worst culprits for poor soldering advice. I'm sure you do find them useful but you're making it harder for yourself. A good soldered joint relies on getting heat into the joint quickly and locally. So sticking it on steel base plates and/or using magnets is detrimental to the that aim. To hold work in alignment I can use my fingers on larger items and various wooden sticks, toothpicks, wooden sleepers, small blocks etc for the smaller items, other use aluminium hair-clips but I've never found the need to.