7mm AdamF's Scale7 Western Workbench

[AdamF]

Finally, my workbench is under way 

Parts for my JLTRT Class 517 tank have arrived, the prototype has been chosen (talk about a confusing class of loco ???) and I am ready to go!

However, perhaps unusually, my thread begins with a couple of questions...

1) how to compensate/spring the chassis. The instructions seem to go for fixed driving axles and compensated trailing axle. I'm wondering whether to spring the front driving axle as well - any thoughts?

2) is it best to get the wheels turned down to Scale7 standards prior to commencing the build? I only ask as I have read that they can rust when exposed to flux and I anticipate having to use the wheels from time to time to calibrate various chassis fittings etc. for soldering into position so was wondering whether I could do that first, complete the chassis and then send the wheels for turning down.

3) any ideas on a very small but powerful and smooth motor and gearset?

Any help on the above gratefully received! 

A

 

[28ten]

I'd get the wheels done at the start, you need them to check clearance  ABC would be my preferred gearbox choice.

 

[Steph Dale]

Adam,

A slightly different view to Cynric's.... 

1. I'd try putting a couple of beams inside the frames across the driving axles, driving on the rear coupled wheelset.  The trailing axle can have a centre pivot so that it rocks.  This will give you true three-point compensation and help with the balancing and haulage of the loco - it'll behave like an 0-6-0.
2. I'd suggest getting them turned up before hand to make sure the clearances are there.
3. Have a look at the Roxey range.  The 40:1 when combined with a Canon 1833 is a beauty that runs very smoothly and quietly.  As an aside it's also pretty straightforward to use with split axles.

You were going to use split axles weren't you.    No?  Oops, sorry 'bout that...

Steph

 

[OzzyO]

Hello Adam,
I would get the wheels turned to S7 first, then when you get them back apply Birchwood Casey to the front and rear of them, then fit the balance weights and then paint them. Doing it that way you can solder close to them and you should not have any problems with the tyres going rusty if you have to solder near them. After all the work has been done remove the paint from the treads .
For the compensation. I would go for springing on all axles.

HTH
OzzyO.

 

[28ten]

I can vouch for the Birchwood casey tip, it does keep the rust at bay

 

[AdamF]

Thanks for the tips guys

Not going for split axles this time I'm afraid - looking at wiper pick-ups for this one

As for suspension, thinking I'll be going for the compensation route - attracted by the balance it is likely to give to the loco.

Looks like I need to get a few more parts in which case, have the wheels turned now and paint them up as OzzyO and Cynric suggest - frustrating further delays to the build!!

Think I might invest in a project to run alongside the 517 - maybe a wagon or lineside item - watch this space

 

[28ten]

Christopher Makepeace is lightning quick at re-profiling them. email him to let him know you are sending them and I bet you will have them by the end of the week.

 

[Scale7JB]

If you send them Monday, you'll have them by Wednesday if mr postie is having a good day!

JB.

 

[AdamF]

OOOooo dilemma!!

Having looked at the Slaters wheelset for the 517 and the measurements for reprofiling I have a feeling that the wheels are not going to turn down into something that I will be happy with

I think that the Slaters sets will machine down ok (fingers crossed) - but I think that the look of the wheel that will result will be off-prototype for me...

I know that someone mentioned that at the outset of my time on this forum and suggested Alan Harris wheels - at the time I wasn't sure that I wanted to spend the money on these wheels but now I am curious

However, I can't find an internet site or catalogue - how does one go about examining the range and prices for Alan Harris wheels? Is there a waiting list as well - so keen to get going with the build!!

And, of course, that might bring split axles back into play!!

A

 

[AdamF]

Whilst sorting out wheel reprofiling I have managed to get the build started

I haven't made that much progress but have managed to cut and clean the core frame and spacer components and to laminate the coupling rods ready for axle alignment later - I therefore spent most of the session filing !!

Here are some pictures - please forgive the quality and the back-of-a-spoon effect in some (if not all) of them - I'm not very good with a camera, though I have a feeling that the hobby will become as much about the photography as the modelling

Here are the components I have cut and cleaned (and the spacers formed):



Close up on the rods:



Side view of a dry run assembly of the frames and spacers:



Three quarters of the dry assembly showing some of the cylinder plate detail:



And a final three quarter shot:



One thing that I would like to try is to represent the oil feeds (I think that's what they are) at the top of the coupling rod bosses on the protoptype - imagine that it will involve drilling a very fine hole and soldering in some fine wire. One of the next tools on the list may have to be a decent hand held mini-drill (don't think a pin chuck is going to work - have to confess to having tried and achieved nothing but a broken drill bit!! )

Next steps will be to incorporate the axle elements (bushes for the front drivers, unsprung hornblocks for the rear drivers and hornguided slots for the trailing axle), fixing together the frames and spacers and incorporating the compensation mechanism - hopefully I'll have reprofiled wheels by then

There may be a slight delay on that next stage as I think I need to get that mini-drill and some tapping equipment for the hornblock assembly - actually, does anyone have any recommendations for drills?

A

 

[Ressaldar]

OOOooo dilemma!!

I know that someone mentioned that at the outset of my time on this forum and suggested Alan Harris wheels - at the time I wasn't sure that I wanted to spend the money on these wheels but now I am curious

However, I can't find an internet site or catalogue - how does one go about examining the range and prices for Alan Harris wheels? Is there a waiting list as well - so keen to get going with the build!!

A

Hi Alan,

Alan Harris has been in hospital recently and I'm not sure how long his recovery is, or indeed his problem, but I understand that it was quite serious. I shall contact some of my North Wales & West Cheshire mates and come back to you, with any information, if I may.

cheers

Mike

 

[AdamF]

Thanks Mike.

That is sad news about Alan Harris - wishing him all the very best.

A

 

[adrian]

One thing that I would like to try is to represent the oil feeds (I think that's what they are) at the top of the coupling rod bosses on the protoptype - imagine that it will involve drilling a very fine hole and soldering in some fine wire. One of the next tools on the list may have to be a decent hand held mini-drill (don't think a pin chuck is going to work - have to confess to having tried and achieved nothing but a broken drill bit!! )

That's looking very neat and tidy work there, interested to see how this progresses.

As for the drilling, I'd seriously recommend a bench/pillar drill rather than a mini-drill. For drilling anything like the coupling rods, castings, sheet metal etc. it will be far far easier with a bench drill rather than a mini-drill. With a bench drill it will keep the drill vertical and with a small vice you will be able to keep everything nice and square. Less likely to break drills and a multitude of uses, makes a great paint stirrer! You can pick up adequate secondhand ones for less than £50, Clarks etc. however a little more £100 or so could get you a very nice bit of machinery. I was lucky to get a nice Jones & Shipman one that has been invaluable and will certainly last my lifetime so it's been a good investment.

 

[AdamF]

Thanks Adrian

I didn't realise you could get pillar drills that would fit a home workshop - we used to have an enormous one at school and I just assumed that was the size they came in!

Going to take a look around to see what I can find.

A

 

[AdamF]

Well, it's been a while since I last posted and not much progress to show for it I'm afraid - work and other commitments have been full on.

Hopefully I'm through the worst of it though and even managed to get an hour at the workbenck yesterday afternoon

Work on the compensation mechanism has commenced, with modifications being done to accomodate Slaters' etched hornguides for the rear drivers.

Axle centres were marked out using the blue and scribe method described in a recent MRJ and the slots cut for the hornguides resulting in:



Two hornguides were folded and soldered (which was quite fiddly!):



But (and you may have seen this coming!):



On a trial fitting, whilst the hornguides turned out to be a good fit across the slots, the shallowness of the 517 frames means that the axleblock sits far below the axle centre and the hornguide itself extends below the underline of the frame structure around the wheel That'll teach me to check before working!

Having examined the situation it seems that some work can be done at the top of the hornguide to carefully remove enough material to give a correct alignment, together with a 1mm movement for the compensation (no spring will be used). I think I can also fettle the bottom of the guide so that it fits the frame correctly and modify the axle keep assembly. Phew!!

That will be the next session's work

Hopefully that will follow soon

 

[Pugsley]

If you can't easily modify the frames, you can successfully mill down the top and bottom of the hornblocks, but that wouldn't cure your problem with the guides.

 

[28ten]

Yes I see your problem, on off road 517 might some different hornblocks/guides be better? i have a feeling Martin Finney units might be better suited, although you will have to sort springing yourself

 

[AdamF]

Thanks guys

Thinking that looking at alternative units (like the Martin Finney ones) would be better than trying to modify the Slaters ones - they're good units and I can save them for another build.

 

[3 LINK]

Finney one's are a better bet ( bit fiddly when adding the webbing detail to the sides ) but slimmer and more prototypical, if you were to carry on with the Slater's ones you would have to cut out more of the chassis and you wouldn't be left with much.

ATB, Martyn.

P.S. It's always best to scribe or mark a datum line on the chassis before you start any cutting out .

 

[Steph Dale]

Finney one's are a better bet ( bit fiddly when adding the webbing detail to the sides ) but slimmer and more prototypical, if you were to carry on with the Slater's ones you would have to cut out more of the chassis and you wouldn't be left with much.

ATB, Martyn.

P.S. It's always best to scribe or mark a datum line on the chassis before you start any cutting out .

Martyn, Adam,

The Finney 'Early GWR style' would probably be correct for this loco - and they don't have the webbing detail. The Slater's ones are a pain in my experience as they require to sit into the frame. I suspect you'll find the Finney ones fit perfectly. The attached photo shows one of these on the right (cross posted from an earlier thread of mine, hence the 'split axle' mod to the one on the left). You'll note it's sitting flat down on the surface...

You might also like the effect of the detail, I know I do...

Steph