O-EM-OO9 workbench

[adrian]

What I really like is how the curve starts out - I can't find the photo I found now, but in plan view it is like this:

The NLS maps extract of Romford lower goods yard is below. Operationally was interesting as there's no run round because wagons were reversed down the incline to the yard. They always had to have brake van at the siding end direction, which in later years was a SR Queen Mary van in ER territory.

Flicking though Col's Bow Street thread I spotted the photo you may have been think of.

Bow Creek Wharf. c.1946. S7

Well JB got the ball rolling so I thought I'd add my contribution, firstly a plan in the style of Rice. I will add further info, sketches etc. in time. ATB, Col.

www.westernthunder.co.uk

 

[Yorkshire Dave]

Ok, so I'd been telling myself for weeks I don't need one.

But I kept looking at this photo (copyright in image) and fell off the wagon.

The NLS maps extract of Romford lower goods yard is below. Operationally was interesting as there's no run round because wagons were reversed down the incline to the yard. They always had to have brake van at the siding end direction, which in later years was a SR Queen Mary van in ER territory.

Tony

I also had a look at NLS OS maps and see the line ran to Romford Brewery, who had an internal rail system with two steam locos. I've often heard the name Romford Brewery but didn't realise it was part of Ind Coope as it was then.

If you're basing a small shunting layout around Romford Brewery it looks like a second Ruston will be required -
Double Rustons Works Wonders, Works Wonders, Works Wonders
Double Rustons Works Wonders so buy a second one today

 

[76043]

Double Rustons Works Wonders, Works Wonders, Works Wonders
Double Rustons Works Wonders so buy a second one today

Oh very good. But did you know it's back?

DOUBLE DIAMOND // SESSION PALE ALE // 3.8% // 440ML - Kirkstall Brewery

BREWED AS A PALE ALE. DRINKS LIKE A LAGER. TASTES BLOODY WONDERFUL! 440ml Malt: Maris Otter & English Cara Malt Hops: Columbus, Citra & Mosaic 3.8% ABV

www.kirkstall.shop

 

[Osgood]

Oh very good. But did you know it's back?

DOUBLE DIAMOND // SESSION PALE ALE // 3.8% // 440ML - Kirkstall Brewery

BREWED AS A PALE ALE. DRINKS LIKE A LAGER. TASTES BLOODY WONDERFUL! 440ml Malt: Maris Otter & English Cara Malt Hops: Columbus, Citra & Mosaic 3.8% ABV

www.kirkstall.shop

Could be worse

 

[76043]

So painting continues on the 7mm wagons. The minerals are ready for assembly, I'm not keen on wagons having non-removable wheels, so the w-irons are removable as previously detailed on this thread five years ago.



These two vans were made before the acquired wagon series and as such I realised the label clip on the LMS van side was moved to the solebar by BR days, so off it came and a quick blow over with top coat.

The GWR van is missing the door catches, it looks to me that the ones Slaters use on their BR vans fit the bill, but I don't have any spare, so for now that's it, onto transfers next.

It's only been five years.



Tony

 

[adrian]

It's only been five years.

That's quite spritely by my glacial standards - but a useful reminder I could do with running a few items myself through the paint shop to clear the bench for the next project.

 

[76043]

The 7mm wagons continue, lettering on the vans is complete, next up the minerals. Lettering takes ages as each letter is applied individually. These are methfix transfers, very nice as no unsightly backing sheet shows up.
Tony

 

[76043]

Mineral wagon interior time, both little and big ones.

I've also disassembled an LMS red Dapol Jinty into seemingly a lot of parts. Any thoughts on how to remove the numbers and lining?

Thanks
Tony

 

[simond]

I’d start with a rattle can of black, but I’m a bit of a philistine in that regard.

 

[76043]

Simon rattle?

I'll get my coat....

@simond the mineral insides got a wafting of satin black, not total coverage so is a good basis for weathering I think.

The Jinty's lettering and lining is quite raised so will be seen once my black satin rattle can appears, I guess I can try the usual suspects, IPA, pale ale, mild etc. (Yep, I'm here all week)

Tony

 

[simond]

Simon rattle?

I'll get my coat....

@simond the minerals got a wafting of satin black, not total coverage so is a good basis for weathering I think.

The Jinty's lettering and lining is quite raised so will be seen once my black satin rattle can appears, I guess I can try the usual suspects, IPA, pale ale, mild etc. (Yep, I'm here all week)

Tony

Ah, didn’t realise there was some thickness to the printing. I guess it’s tampo-printed so that’ll be inevitable.

a quick google does not suggest an easy solution to that. I think a mechanical approach, prior to the rattle can might be your easiest option. I doubt IPA (of either variety) will touch it, and stronger solvents are likely to mess up the moulding. Wet & dry used wet? Tedious but effective.

AI Overview




Tampo (pad) printing ink chemistry relies on a specialized mixture of solvents, solid binders/resins, and intense pigments designed to transition rapidly from a liquid to a tacky film for silicone pad transfer. The core systems consist of single-component physical drying, two-component chemical curing, or UV-photo-polymerization. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]

Key Chemical Components

• • Binders and Resins: Acrylic, vinyl, epoxy, or polyurethane polymers that establish final film hardness, flexibility, and substrate bonding. [1]
  • Solvents: Glycol ethers, cyclohexanone, or aromatic hydrocarbons that control evaporation rates and viscosity adjustments during the transfer cycle. [1, 2, 4, 5]
  • Pigments and Dyes: Finely milled organic or inorganic compounds that provide opacity and color saturation. [1, 2]
  • Hardeners/Catalysts: Polyisocyanates mixed at 3–20% ratios in two-component systems to prompt cross-linking reactions for enhanced chemical and scratch resistance. [1, 2, 3, 4]
  • Photoinitiators: Light-absorbing molecules in UV-curable variants that instantly trigger free-radical polymerization under UV exposure. [1]

Curing Mechanisms

• • Solvent Evaporation (Physical): Thermoplastic resins dry as ambient air evacuates the solvent carriers, leaving a flexible solid film. [1, 2]
  • Polyaddition/Cross-linking (Chemical): Two-pack reactive formulas build rigid three-dimensional polymer networks, achieving full physical and chemical resistance within 24 hours. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]
  • Photopolymerization (UV): Liquid monomers and oligomers lock into stable high-molecular-weight polymers in milliseconds upon light activation. [1]

 

[76043]

Thanks for that Simon, luckily the tank sides are completely flat so wet and dry may have to do.
Cheers
Tony

 

[Dan Randall]

I bought a Dapol 7mm scale “MOGO”, in a fictional “Morris” livery that I planned to repaint into BR bauxite as bizarrely, I don’t think this livery was an option from Dapol, though I’m happy to be proved wrong.

Anyway, the ”Morris” livery was a few quid cheaper than the GWR grey version, so that’s what I ordered, but I soon wished I hadn’t! Nothing would touch the Tampo-printed logo that spanned both doors and in the end, I had to resort to digging the tip of a scalpel blade into an edge and literally pinging tiny little flakes of it off, repeating the process, over and over until it was all gone. This took absolutely ages and was especially tricky around the moulded-on door securing chains and the grooves between the planks!

So, if anyone has plans to repaint an as yet unbought wagon and you’re also tempted by a cheaper, fictional liveried example, do yourselves a huge favour and buy something in a plain finish!


Regards

Dan

 

[adrian]

The Jinty's lettering and lining is quite raised so will be seen once my black satin rattle can appears, I guess I can try the usual suspects, IPA, pale ale, mild etc. (Yep, I'm here all week)

I'm sure I've seen prototype photo's where the original grouping liveries were discernible underneath the veneer of the BR top coat and livery. So maybe not altogether totally un-prototypical.

 

[Yorkshire Dave]

I'm sure I've seen prototype photo's where the original grouping liveries were discernible underneath the veneer of the BR top coat and livery. So maybe not altogether totally un-prototypical.

Certainly not un-prototypical. I'm not sure whether pre-1923 liveries would have been painted over and survived to be carried through to nationalisation. I would have expected the 'big four' companies to have removed all traces of previous ownership when any piece of acquired stock was due for overhaul and repaint.

The Jinty as seen depicts the immediate 1923 post-grouping LMS livery and 5 digit numbering. More than likely they would have stripped it all back before repainting into black and re-numbering into 4 digits.

 

[simond]

my understanding is that the Jinties (Jockos?) never carried the lined red livery, it’s a post preservation fiction.

I guess if the numbers “grinned” through the black, it might not matter much and might even add something, but the lining would not be obvious?

 

[76043]

Thanks everyone for your help, it's my understanding that LMS Jinty's never had anything other than black and this livery is the preserved one at the Midland Railway Centre in the 70s / 80s. It was going cheap at £144, so serves me right.

I had to resort to digging the tip of a scalpel blade into an edge and literally pinging tiny little flakes of it off, repeating the process, over and over until it was all gone.
Dan

Wow, that sounds truly awful and good advice.

I think the lining will show, so I'll just have to hope it's not as bad as Dan's Morris van.

The good news is that it runs very well at slow speed on DC, perfect for shunting. I put my only 21 pin Zimo chip in it and it's great.
Cheers
Tony

 

[Graeme King]

If the raised numbers are on a flat area without bolt/rivet detail, and you are repainting anyway, what's to stop you using a little piece of 600 or 1200 grade grit paper wrapped round a rigid flat pad, and water, to take off the raised figures. Same goes for the lining if there is no lip or raised detail at the edges.

 

[76043]

If the raised numbers are on a flat area without bolt/rivet detail, and you are repainting anyway, what's to stop you using a little piece of 600 or 1200 grade grit paper wrapped round a rigid flat pad, and water, to take off the raised figures. Same goes for the lining if there is no lip or raised detail at the edges.

Nothing at all Graeme, except the general consensus is that the printing is really tough and hard, meaning that you could sand off more of the surrounding softer plastic before the lining has gone. So if a solvent could soften it first...
Tony

 

[Yorkshire Dave]

Nothing at all Graeme, except the general consensus is that the printing is really tough and hard, meaning that you could sand off more of the surrounding softer plastic before the lining has gone. So if a solvent could soften it first...

I would avoid solvents in case they attack the plastic.

I've sanded off numerals and lining using fine sanding sticks (from Albion Alloys https://www.albionhobbies.com/wp-content/uploads/Abrasives.pdf) or nail polishing files/sticks found in supermarkets or chemists, and water. The alternative as suggested by @Graeme King is to use a tiny piece of 600 grit or higher emery paper stuck to short stick or dowel and water. If done slowly with minimum pressure the lettering and lining will soon disappear.

I've also used a scalpel with a Swann Morton no.10 curved blade to scrape the numbers (and lining). Using a curved blade prevents the point digging in to the plastic Surgical Scalpel Blade No.10. Swann-Morton Ltd . I usually finish the area with a fine grit emery paper and water.